Left Indianapolis Wednesday after 3 nights at the "Comfort" Inn South, which has some serious hot water problems. Before leaving, I visited the James Whitcomb Riley Museum on Lockerbie Street, the only remaining cobblestone street in Indianapolis. Riley lived there as the guest of a wealthy family for the last 30 years of his life. He was an extremely popular, prolific, & well-known poet during his life, even going on the lecture circuit with Mark Twain, but his star has since faded outside Indiana. Few now know him as the author of "Little Orphant Annie" and "Raggedy Man." The latter was the inspiration for Johnny Gruelle, the son of a good friend, to create a "Raggedy Ann" doll for his daughter when she was ill. The stories followed.
After only 9 days on the road, I finally gained an hour when I crossed into Illinois, taking I-74 northwest, to meet up eventually with I-80 at the Quad Cities. But the speed limit went down to 65 from 70. I am told it will go back up in Iowa or Nebraska.
Stopped for the night in Galesburg at the the Best Western Prairie Inn. It is a lovely hotel, with all rooms decorated in prairie style, including furniture & fixtures in my room. Downtown is charming and immaculate, with lots of planters full of flowers and many old buildings retrofitted for current use. I am told by my friend Russell that it is an important railroad town, and I see on the map that several lines cross here. You will all be glad to know I had an excellent dinner with perfect service Chez Willys: seared duck breast served with roesti potatoes. A Coppola claret to drink. Restaurant was delightful, bistro like, decorated with contemporary pottery on shelves and walls made by a local potter. I talked for a few minutes with Willy, who is probably mid- to late-50's. He is local, but lived for 7 or 8 years in the Bay Area in the wild 70's before returning here because it was just too expensive there. Even so he wishes he had been able to buy a house there then.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
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