Eiteljorg Museum

Annette said not to miss the Museum of American Indians and Western Art in Indianapolis, though she hasn't seen it yet. And AAA rates it a "gem." It is the "Eiteljorg Museum." How to pronounce it? Just like it looks. Harrison Eiteljorg was a wealthy Indianapolis businessman who amassed an incredible collection of Western and Native American art. His museum first opened in 1989, nearly a decade before his death; an extension was completed a few years ago. Eiteljorg collected in other areas as well, some of which went to the Indianapolis Museum of Art.

It seemed totally appropriate to visit the museum the day after seeing "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee." Did anyone else notice Fred Thompson's cameo as President Grant? Hope this is as close as he comes to being president. I spent nearly the entire day in this museum. The building itself is fabulous: inspired by the land and architecture of the Southwest. The current temporary exhibit, "Totems to Turquoise: Native American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest," requires several hours to see thoroughly. It was organized by the Museum of Natural History in New York; I don't know where else it will travel to. "Northwest" is the Canadian coast down to the Salish in Washington State. "Southwest" is primarily Arizona & New Mexico. More than jewelry is shown; baskets, weavings, and other craft arts are also exhibited, along with displays of contemporary artists who use traditional motifs and inspirations with contemporary techniques and interpretions. The oldest object I noted was a jet pendant from the Northwest made sometime before 1000 BC.

The existence of such a magnificent museum has spawned donations of other important collections. Businessman George Gund from Cleveland donated his collection of Western art here because he felt there was no appropriate venue in Cleveland. And a collection of "Illustrators of the Golden West" (for magazines and books) has recently come to the museum. On the lower level is a hands-on discovery section for children. In fact, Indianapolis seems to be a great place to bring children: there is a world-class children's zoo and ditto children's museum. In all, there are 8 sites rated as "gems" by AAA, and numerous other interesting places to visit.

Yes, Annette, you should stop here on your next drive to or from St. Louis. And, Michael, you should visit this museum next time you come on business.

The museum is next to the Indiana State Museum, another magnificent building, and next to the city canal, where families were biking, some with children in a bike version of a pedicab. Outside next to the museum is a prairie garden landscaped with native plants. The Tennis Center is nearby; I think the US Clay Court Championship is played there later in the summer.

Too tired to go to another museum after 4+ hours in this one, including a lunch break and a tea break, I drove around downtown, which was fairly quiet due to the holiday. Big wide streets, like Salt Lake City. Special INDY weekend flags everywhere downtown. And lots of signs everywhere downtown to important destinations. Very tourist-friendly.