Left Indianapolis Wednesday after 3 nights at the "Comfort" Inn South, which has some serious hot water problems. Before leaving, I visited the James Whitcomb Riley Museum on Lockerbie Street, the only remaining cobblestone street in Indianapolis. Riley lived there as the guest of a wealthy family for the last 30 years of his life. He was an extremely popular, prolific, & well-known poet during his life, even going on the lecture circuit with Mark Twain, but his star has since faded outside Indiana. Few now know him as the author of "Little Orphant Annie" and "Raggedy Man." The latter was the inspiration for Johnny Gruelle, the son of a good friend, to create a "Raggedy Ann" doll for his daughter when she was ill. The stories followed.
After only 9 days on the road, I finally gained an hour when I crossed into Illinois, taking I-74 northwest, to meet up eventually with I-80 at the Quad Cities. But the speed limit went down to 65 from 70. I am told it will go back up in Iowa or Nebraska.
Stopped for the night in Galesburg at the the Best Western Prairie Inn. It is a lovely hotel, with all rooms decorated in prairie style, including furniture & fixtures in my room. Downtown is charming and immaculate, with lots of planters full of flowers and many old buildings retrofitted for current use. I am told by my friend Russell that it is an important railroad town, and I see on the map that several lines cross here. You will all be glad to know I had an excellent dinner with perfect service Chez Willys: seared duck breast served with roesti potatoes. A Coppola claret to drink. Restaurant was delightful, bistro like, decorated with contemporary pottery on shelves and walls made by a local potter. I talked for a few minutes with Willy, who is probably mid- to late-50's. He is local, but lived for 7 or 8 years in the Bay Area in the wild 70's before returning here because it was just too expensive there. Even so he wishes he had been able to buy a house there then.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
A Day in the Country
"Different by Design"
That's the motto of Columbus, Indiana, a town of 39,000, about 45 miles south of Indianapolis. It all started back in 1942 when the First Christian Church needed a new building. It selected Eliel Saarinen as architect. This was the first contemporary church in the United States. Later, in the 50's, when more schools were needed for the baby boomers, the local big employer, Cummins Engine Co. [specializing in diesel engines for automobiles], set up a foundation and panel to pay the architect fees for building new schools, then later for other public buildings. The result is astounding. Buildings by I.M. Pei, Richard Meier, Cesar Pelli, Harry Weese, Eero Saarinen, Robert Venturi, and many other names that architecture aficionados would recognize. Tuesday I took the 2-hour tour given by the visitor center, which is amazing in its own right with a gorgeous yellow glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. The tour was mostly by bus, but we went inside several of the churches. Spectacular, timeless, without being flashy. The architects aimed for "coherence" to the feeling of the town. We are in the prairie, so most building are low, not high rise, ala Frank Lloyd Wright. And landscaping must be included in the building plans. Many of the buildings have won awards by the AIA, which has named Columbus the sixth best city in the US for architecture, after Chicago, New York and the like. It is astounding in a city of this size. The town is also proud of many of its older, late 19th century, buildings which have been restored or renovated.
After the tour, I walked around a bit on my own. The library, next door to the visitor center, was designed by I.M. Pei. The mammoth sculpture "Large Arch," by Henry Moore, is out front in the library plaza, which is used for community events, such as a Pop Fest. A sculpture by Jean Tingley is in the Commons, a small in-town mall. The Cummins headquarters has a "museum" for visitors. On display is the "Exploded Engine," showing all the parts of a diesel engine. One can also see the only remaining 1934 Auburn car powered by a Cummins diesel engine and the winning car of the 1987 Indy 500 that was driven by Al Unser, Sr.
I had a delicious Thai Chicken Pasta salad for lunch at Cooks & Co., which has a kitchen specialty store next door, complete with a demonstration kitchen for cooking classes. Several people have asked me about food on the trip. Not much to write home about, but I haven't really been seeking out gourmet places. Too grubby & tired at the end of the day. But if lettuce is any indicator, in Ohio there was only iceberg, in Indiana it has been pretty much romaine and mixed greens.
People seem to love living in Columbus. The tour guide was originally from Scotland. She came here 35 years ago when her husband was transferred for a 2-year-stint with Cummins. I also talked with a woman in the library who moved here from San Diego about a year ago. She loves the seasons. (Her husband is a native Hoosier.)
A beautiful drive 20 miles east, through gentle rolling hills, to Nashville, in Brown County, Indiana, which markets itself as an "Artist Colony." 100 years ago, T.C. Steele, a famous Hoosier artist, moved to this area. He was a magnet for other mid-west artists who came to paint in the summers. They became known as the "Hoosier Group" of American Impressionists. The town is still living off this association; it is full of little gift shops, kind of like a micro "Carmel by the Sea," but without the sea. The streets were crawling with tourists, but there is a very respectable Brown County Art Gallery with work by local artists. I moved on another 8 miles to visit the home T.C. Steele built on a hilltop, with a fabulous view for miles. They are celebrating all round the county the centennial of his move to the area, so his studio at the home has a special exhibit of his paintings on loan from his descendants.
On the way to Nashville, I passed an "Olde Time Flea Market," essentially a large field full of rusty old farm equipment, just waiting for former Urban Institute colleague Al Gillespie.
That's the motto of Columbus, Indiana, a town of 39,000, about 45 miles south of Indianapolis. It all started back in 1942 when the First Christian Church needed a new building. It selected Eliel Saarinen as architect. This was the first contemporary church in the United States. Later, in the 50's, when more schools were needed for the baby boomers, the local big employer, Cummins Engine Co. [specializing in diesel engines for automobiles], set up a foundation and panel to pay the architect fees for building new schools, then later for other public buildings. The result is astounding. Buildings by I.M. Pei, Richard Meier, Cesar Pelli, Harry Weese, Eero Saarinen, Robert Venturi, and many other names that architecture aficionados would recognize. Tuesday I took the 2-hour tour given by the visitor center, which is amazing in its own right with a gorgeous yellow glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. The tour was mostly by bus, but we went inside several of the churches. Spectacular, timeless, without being flashy. The architects aimed for "coherence" to the feeling of the town. We are in the prairie, so most building are low, not high rise, ala Frank Lloyd Wright. And landscaping must be included in the building plans. Many of the buildings have won awards by the AIA, which has named Columbus the sixth best city in the US for architecture, after Chicago, New York and the like. It is astounding in a city of this size. The town is also proud of many of its older, late 19th century, buildings which have been restored or renovated.
After the tour, I walked around a bit on my own. The library, next door to the visitor center, was designed by I.M. Pei. The mammoth sculpture "Large Arch," by Henry Moore, is out front in the library plaza, which is used for community events, such as a Pop Fest. A sculpture by Jean Tingley is in the Commons, a small in-town mall. The Cummins headquarters has a "museum" for visitors. On display is the "Exploded Engine," showing all the parts of a diesel engine. One can also see the only remaining 1934 Auburn car powered by a Cummins diesel engine and the winning car of the 1987 Indy 500 that was driven by Al Unser, Sr.
I had a delicious Thai Chicken Pasta salad for lunch at Cooks & Co., which has a kitchen specialty store next door, complete with a demonstration kitchen for cooking classes. Several people have asked me about food on the trip. Not much to write home about, but I haven't really been seeking out gourmet places. Too grubby & tired at the end of the day. But if lettuce is any indicator, in Ohio there was only iceberg, in Indiana it has been pretty much romaine and mixed greens.
People seem to love living in Columbus. The tour guide was originally from Scotland. She came here 35 years ago when her husband was transferred for a 2-year-stint with Cummins. I also talked with a woman in the library who moved here from San Diego about a year ago. She loves the seasons. (Her husband is a native Hoosier.)
A beautiful drive 20 miles east, through gentle rolling hills, to Nashville, in Brown County, Indiana, which markets itself as an "Artist Colony." 100 years ago, T.C. Steele, a famous Hoosier artist, moved to this area. He was a magnet for other mid-west artists who came to paint in the summers. They became known as the "Hoosier Group" of American Impressionists. The town is still living off this association; it is full of little gift shops, kind of like a micro "Carmel by the Sea," but without the sea. The streets were crawling with tourists, but there is a very respectable Brown County Art Gallery with work by local artists. I moved on another 8 miles to visit the home T.C. Steele built on a hilltop, with a fabulous view for miles. They are celebrating all round the county the centennial of his move to the area, so his studio at the home has a special exhibit of his paintings on loan from his descendants.
On the way to Nashville, I passed an "Olde Time Flea Market," essentially a large field full of rusty old farm equipment, just waiting for former Urban Institute colleague Al Gillespie.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Eiteljorg Museum
Annette said not to miss the Museum of American Indians and Western Art in Indianapolis, though she hasn't seen it yet. And AAA rates it a "gem." It is the "Eiteljorg Museum." How to pronounce it? Just like it looks. Harrison Eiteljorg was a wealthy Indianapolis businessman who amassed an incredible collection of Western and Native American art. His museum first opened in 1989, nearly a decade before his death; an extension was completed a few years ago. Eiteljorg collected in other areas as well, some of which went to the Indianapolis Museum of Art.
It seemed totally appropriate to visit the museum the day after seeing "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee." Did anyone else notice Fred Thompson's cameo as President Grant? Hope this is as close as he comes to being president. I spent nearly the entire day in this museum. The building itself is fabulous: inspired by the land and architecture of the Southwest. The current temporary exhibit, "Totems to Turquoise: Native American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest," requires several hours to see thoroughly. It was organized by the Museum of Natural History in New York; I don't know where else it will travel to. "Northwest" is the Canadian coast down to the Salish in Washington State. "Southwest" is primarily Arizona & New Mexico. More than jewelry is shown; baskets, weavings, and other craft arts are also exhibited, along with displays of contemporary artists who use traditional motifs and inspirations with contemporary techniques and interpretions. The oldest object I noted was a jet pendant from the Northwest made sometime before 1000 BC.
The existence of such a magnificent museum has spawned donations of other important collections. Businessman George Gund from Cleveland donated his collection of Western art here because he felt there was no appropriate venue in Cleveland. And a collection of "Illustrators of the Golden West" (for magazines and books) has recently come to the museum. On the lower level is a hands-on discovery section for children. In fact, Indianapolis seems to be a great place to bring children: there is a world-class children's zoo and ditto children's museum. In all, there are 8 sites rated as "gems" by AAA, and numerous other interesting places to visit.
Yes, Annette, you should stop here on your next drive to or from St. Louis. And, Michael, you should visit this museum next time you come on business.
The museum is next to the Indiana State Museum, another magnificent building, and next to the city canal, where families were biking, some with children in a bike version of a pedicab. Outside next to the museum is a prairie garden landscaped with native plants. The Tennis Center is nearby; I think the US Clay Court Championship is played there later in the summer.
Too tired to go to another museum after 4+ hours in this one, including a lunch break and a tea break, I drove around downtown, which was fairly quiet due to the holiday. Big wide streets, like Salt Lake City. Special INDY weekend flags everywhere downtown. And lots of signs everywhere downtown to important destinations. Very tourist-friendly.
It seemed totally appropriate to visit the museum the day after seeing "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee." Did anyone else notice Fred Thompson's cameo as President Grant? Hope this is as close as he comes to being president. I spent nearly the entire day in this museum. The building itself is fabulous: inspired by the land and architecture of the Southwest. The current temporary exhibit, "Totems to Turquoise: Native American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest," requires several hours to see thoroughly. It was organized by the Museum of Natural History in New York; I don't know where else it will travel to. "Northwest" is the Canadian coast down to the Salish in Washington State. "Southwest" is primarily Arizona & New Mexico. More than jewelry is shown; baskets, weavings, and other craft arts are also exhibited, along with displays of contemporary artists who use traditional motifs and inspirations with contemporary techniques and interpretions. The oldest object I noted was a jet pendant from the Northwest made sometime before 1000 BC.
The existence of such a magnificent museum has spawned donations of other important collections. Businessman George Gund from Cleveland donated his collection of Western art here because he felt there was no appropriate venue in Cleveland. And a collection of "Illustrators of the Golden West" (for magazines and books) has recently come to the museum. On the lower level is a hands-on discovery section for children. In fact, Indianapolis seems to be a great place to bring children: there is a world-class children's zoo and ditto children's museum. In all, there are 8 sites rated as "gems" by AAA, and numerous other interesting places to visit.
Yes, Annette, you should stop here on your next drive to or from St. Louis. And, Michael, you should visit this museum next time you come on business.
The museum is next to the Indiana State Museum, another magnificent building, and next to the city canal, where families were biking, some with children in a bike version of a pedicab. Outside next to the museum is a prairie garden landscaped with native plants. The Tennis Center is nearby; I think the US Clay Court Championship is played there later in the summer.
Too tired to go to another museum after 4+ hours in this one, including a lunch break and a tea break, I drove around downtown, which was fairly quiet due to the holiday. Big wide streets, like Salt Lake City. Special INDY weekend flags everywhere downtown. And lots of signs everywhere downtown to important destinations. Very tourist-friendly.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Rain in Indiana
Finally left Ohio and reached Indiana. I've traveled over 1000 miles, but not that far westward. In fact, I think I'm only a little more than 1/4 of the way to San Francisco. The landscape has been gradually flattening out ever since I left West Virginia. I entered Indiana near the highest point in the state, 1257'. The state population is pretty low, too, only about 6 million. The weather forecasts have been threatening thunderstorms for days, but the first rain I've seen landed about 5 minutes before I arrived at my motel in Indianapolis, about 3:30 pm. How appropriate to be here on the day of the Indy 500. Many of the drivers in the city seem to think they are competing in the Indy. But the Indy was rain-delayed, as was the French Open. I caught the tail-end of a reshowing of the 2006 French Open final between Federer and Nadal. Two hours later the sun came out, and I went to dinner. It rained again while I was eating, but stopped before I finished.
At a rest stop in Ohio, a sign gave distances to other cities. It was only 70 miles to the Indiana "boarder." But I didn't see him along the way. By the way, the rest stops and state information centers on the interstates across country are terrific. Only in California are they infrequent and tacky. I guess California doesn't think it needs to boost tourism. The greeter at the Indiana Welcome Center is rooting for Danica.
And Indiana now has Daylight Savings Time. They passed it in 2005 after only 40 years of debate.
At a rest stop in Ohio, a sign gave distances to other cities. It was only 70 miles to the Indiana "boarder." But I didn't see him along the way. By the way, the rest stops and state information centers on the interstates across country are terrific. Only in California are they infrequent and tacky. I guess California doesn't think it needs to boost tourism. The greeter at the Indiana Welcome Center is rooting for Danica.
And Indiana now has Daylight Savings Time. They passed it in 2005 after only 40 years of debate.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Fried Mac & Cheese and Tom's Ice Cream
After driving all over to find the Zane Grey Museum closed, I did see two gems today. First, the National Ceramic Museum and Heritage Center in Crooksville, next to Roseville, with a collection of pieces from area potteries, mostly all, if not all, no longer in business. The museum is connected with Hocking College, which specializes in Ceramic Arts classes.
The second gem was the Zanesville Art Center. Zanesville bills itself as the pottery capital of the United States. Thus it may be in some competition with East Liverpool. Sort of like Oceanside, CA and Huntington Beach, CA, both of which claim to be Surf City. But the potteries associated with this area are definitely more in the art pottery category: Weller, Zanesville, Roseville, McCoy, and the like. The Art Center has a terrific collection of Ohio art pottery, a Madame Alexander Doll Collection, and temporary exhibits of local Ohio artists.
I had lunch at "Peaches" in downtown Crooksville. On the menu was "Fried Mac & Cheese Wedges." That's little wedges, deep-fried. I would have loved to have unfried mac & cheese, but it was not available. I refrained from doing a Jack Nicholson imitation and tried the fried variety. Pretty good, to try once. Wonder if Clea would like it. For dessert, ice cream from Tom's Ice Cream Bowl, recommended by the CVS clerk as the best in Zanesville. It was mobbed; Reminded me of the original Gifford's in Bethesda.
On to Indiana tomorrow?
The second gem was the Zanesville Art Center. Zanesville bills itself as the pottery capital of the United States. Thus it may be in some competition with East Liverpool. Sort of like Oceanside, CA and Huntington Beach, CA, both of which claim to be Surf City. But the potteries associated with this area are definitely more in the art pottery category: Weller, Zanesville, Roseville, McCoy, and the like. The Art Center has a terrific collection of Ohio art pottery, a Madame Alexander Doll Collection, and temporary exhibits of local Ohio artists.
I had lunch at "Peaches" in downtown Crooksville. On the menu was "Fried Mac & Cheese Wedges." That's little wedges, deep-fried. I would have loved to have unfried mac & cheese, but it was not available. I refrained from doing a Jack Nicholson imitation and tried the fried variety. Pretty good, to try once. Wonder if Clea would like it. For dessert, ice cream from Tom's Ice Cream Bowl, recommended by the CVS clerk as the best in Zanesville. It was mobbed; Reminded me of the original Gifford's in Bethesda.
On to Indiana tomorrow?
Friday, May 25, 2007
Baker Family Museum
I drove about 100 miles today, almost in a full circle, but I did end up a little further west, in Zanesville. I am taking it even easier than usual because Mother can't meet me in Omaha until June 4, to join me for the last part of the trip.
The gem for today was the Baker Family Museum in Caldwell. The more than 100,000 items in the museum were collected (accumulated?) over 70 years by a brother and sister who never married. The brother died a few years ago, but the sister is still living at age 94. A niece spent 4 years to pack and move the items from the 700-acre farm, catalog them, and set up the museum. There were over 1500 boxes. I am amazed that she did it that quickly, after what I experienced with my father's estate. Highlights:
It is hard to convey the quantity of items of each type without seeing the museum in person. Truly mind-boggling. It is easily worth millions. I rate this museum 2 3/4 rather than 3, only because the items are not identified to the visitor as to maker. Although that might be difficult to accomplish, given that each display case is quite full, and tags might be distracting.
I recovered after lunch and set off to see The Wilds, North America's largest conservation Facility, covering more than 10,000 acres of reclaimed surface-mined land, now home to over 25 species of Asian African, and North American wildlife. Think of the San Diego Wild Animal Park, with more land. I drove 6 miles on an access road to reach the "Welcome Center," only to find that it is open only on weekends in May. Bummer! On the way back out, I nearly hit a deer that ran out right in front of my car. So much for conservation. And to think I skipped seeing the "Big Muskie Bucket" in Miner's Memorial Park. It weighs 460,000 pounds empty, and its volume equals a 12-car garage.
The gem for today was the Baker Family Museum in Caldwell. The more than 100,000 items in the museum were collected (accumulated?) over 70 years by a brother and sister who never married. The brother died a few years ago, but the sister is still living at age 94. A niece spent 4 years to pack and move the items from the 700-acre farm, catalog them, and set up the museum. There were over 1500 boxes. I am amazed that she did it that quickly, after what I experienced with my father's estate. Highlights:
- 1000s of pieces of glassware, much from local companies including Cambridge, Heisey, Fenton, Westmorland, and Degenhart
- pottery, including many pieces of art pottery, from Weller, Shawnee, Roseville, McCoy, and many others from around the world
- toys, large scale model trains
- glass oil lamps
- an entire case of pocket watches
- 3 cases of antique rifles and handguns
- hand painted porcelain, including a gorgeous demitasse set from R.S. Prussia
- an entire room of Americana
It is hard to convey the quantity of items of each type without seeing the museum in person. Truly mind-boggling. It is easily worth millions. I rate this museum 2 3/4 rather than 3, only because the items are not identified to the visitor as to maker. Although that might be difficult to accomplish, given that each display case is quite full, and tags might be distracting.
I recovered after lunch and set off to see The Wilds, North America's largest conservation Facility, covering more than 10,000 acres of reclaimed surface-mined land, now home to over 25 species of Asian African, and North American wildlife. Think of the San Diego Wild Animal Park, with more land. I drove 6 miles on an access road to reach the "Welcome Center," only to find that it is open only on weekends in May. Bummer! On the way back out, I nearly hit a deer that ran out right in front of my car. So much for conservation. And to think I skipped seeing the "Big Muskie Bucket" in Miner's Memorial Park. It weighs 460,000 pounds empty, and its volume equals a 12-car garage.
Thursday, May 24, 2007
William McKinley and Ernest Warther
I drove nearly 200 miles today, but very little of it westerly. Very hot today, about 86 degrees.
I couldn't leave East Liverpool without seeing the "Point of Beginning." Just northeast of Downtown is the first U.S. Boundary marker, marking the survey line for the boundary between Pennsylvania and the Northwest Territory. Thus began the westward expansion of the country. The line turned out to be very close to Hall China, but I didn't know that when I went there yesterday. Just so I could be in a 3rd state today, I crossed the River to West Virginia to visit the Homer Laughlin Retail Outlet Center on Fiesta Drive, directly across from East Liverpool. They sell only Fiesta ware there, none of the other Homer Laughlin patterns. Circled back to East Liverpool by crossing the Newell (toll) Bridge. It must be over 100 years old, I think it was on the Lincoln Road (more about that another day). The tollkeeper tried to give me my change in scrip and was surprised that I wanted money. I guess regulars use these chits. Finally, I checked out the local Carnegie Library, which is still in use as a library in East Liverpool.
Drove North to Canton to visit the William McKinley Presidential Library & Museum. The site also has the huge McKinley Memorial, which was paid for by raising private funds. The so-called Presidential Library is in the county museum, which has a variety of other exhibits as well. There is just one large room with McKinley material. Sound bites:
Drove south to Dover to see the amazing carvings of Ernest Warther, who had only a 2nd grade education. The son of Swiss immigrants, he picked up a knife he found at age 5, and the rest is history. He carved in wood, ivory, ebony, and made exact scale models of trains, steam engines, boats, among other exquisite, intricate carvings, just in his spare time, as a hobby. Many of the models are mechanized; each is truly unbelievable. He also started making his own knives, which branched into a business, tho he never sold any of his carvings. Mrs. Warther was extremely artistic as well. She assembled a collection of thousands of buttons, which she arranged in beautiful designs sewn on to backings, now on display in another small building.
Dover is in the midst of an area that was populated by Swiss & German immigrants. The countryside is filled with immaculate Amish farms. I took the scenic route south (and a bit west) to Cambridge, at the intersection of I-77 and I-70.
I couldn't leave East Liverpool without seeing the "Point of Beginning." Just northeast of Downtown is the first U.S. Boundary marker, marking the survey line for the boundary between Pennsylvania and the Northwest Territory. Thus began the westward expansion of the country. The line turned out to be very close to Hall China, but I didn't know that when I went there yesterday. Just so I could be in a 3rd state today, I crossed the River to West Virginia to visit the Homer Laughlin Retail Outlet Center on Fiesta Drive, directly across from East Liverpool. They sell only Fiesta ware there, none of the other Homer Laughlin patterns. Circled back to East Liverpool by crossing the Newell (toll) Bridge. It must be over 100 years old, I think it was on the Lincoln Road (more about that another day). The tollkeeper tried to give me my change in scrip and was surprised that I wanted money. I guess regulars use these chits. Finally, I checked out the local Carnegie Library, which is still in use as a library in East Liverpool.
Drove North to Canton to visit the William McKinley Presidential Library & Museum. The site also has the huge McKinley Memorial, which was paid for by raising private funds. The so-called Presidential Library is in the county museum, which has a variety of other exhibits as well. There is just one large room with McKinley material. Sound bites:
- His first campaign, in 1896, was the "Front Porch Campaign." He didn't go anywhere, but the train brought notables to Canton to hear him on his front porch
- His first Vice-President, Hobart, died in office, so Teddy Roosevelt was chosen for the 1900 race
- The campaign slogan for the 1900 race was, "Four More Years of the Full Dinner Pail"
- He defeated Wm. Jennings Bryan both times
- His 1st Inauguration was the first to be filmed
- His issues were high tariffs to protect American industry (viz., pottery) and sound money
- In the 1896 campaign, both parties expressed sympathy for Cuban revolutionaries (!) against Spain
- Teddy Roosevelt gained fame as one one of the "Rough Riders" during the ensuing Spanish-American War
- He was assassinated in September 1901 while visiting the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, NY
Drove south to Dover to see the amazing carvings of Ernest Warther, who had only a 2nd grade education. The son of Swiss immigrants, he picked up a knife he found at age 5, and the rest is history. He carved in wood, ivory, ebony, and made exact scale models of trains, steam engines, boats, among other exquisite, intricate carvings, just in his spare time, as a hobby. Many of the models are mechanized; each is truly unbelievable. He also started making his own knives, which branched into a business, tho he never sold any of his carvings. Mrs. Warther was extremely artistic as well. She assembled a collection of thousands of buttons, which she arranged in beautiful designs sewn on to backings, now on display in another small building.
Dover is in the midst of an area that was populated by Swiss & German immigrants. The countryside is filled with immaculate Amish farms. I took the scenic route south (and a bit west) to Cambridge, at the intersection of I-77 and I-70.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Pottery City, U.S.A.
Also known as "Crockery City," at one time East Liverpool, Ohio made half the china in the US.
The highlight of the day was my visit to the Museum of Ceramics, in East Liverpool's former Post Office building (1909). A movie and terrific exhibits chronicle the rise and decline of the city's pottery industry. (3 stars, Annette.)
The first pottery was started here in 1839 by an Englishman, John Bennett. He chose the area both for the clay, which is relatively free of impurities, and the ease of distribution afforded by the adjacent Ohio River. After some modest success, he sent for his brothers from England, and soon other English potters came as well. By 1850, three quarters of the potters were English. The town had been founded in 1799 and was slow to grow until the pottery industry developed, but became essentially a one-industry town. By 1900, 90% of the industrial wage earners were in ceramics manufacturing, at which time there were 239 kilns. Worse, in 1881, only 800 out of 2200 eligible children were in school; the rest worked in potteries. This situation continued until 1908 when Ohio adopted the Child Labor Act. The industry has had many ups and downs. When high protective tariffs were suddenly reduced, the once-protected potteries lowered wages, thus causing labor problems. Tariffs were raised once again when McKinley became president. He was from Eastern Ohio and was a good friend of John Taylor, one of the owners of Knowles, Taylor and Knowles. High tariffs didn't last, so that by 1936, 50% of all china came from Japan. Plastics and foreign competition meant that in 1940 the local industry had declined to only 6 firms. Two years ago, Hall China lost a long-time big customer, Longaberger, to production in China. Over 100 employees were let go and only one of its 4 expensive German automatic pressing machines is running. It is probably surviving by producing Fiesta for Homer Laughlin across the River. This story parallels that of most manufacturing in the US.
The Museum displays samples from many of the potteries that existed at various times since the beginnings. You have seen or maybe own dishes made by local potteries. Knowles, Taylor and Knowles, established in 1853, was the largest in the US by 1895, but survived only until 1929. By 1925, Homer Laughlin was the largest, due to its many technological innovations. Homer Laughlin is famous for Fiesta, but has made many other popular patterns. Harker, which was in existence from 1840 until 1972, and Hall, still in existence, but recently faltering, were also innovators. Hall is famous for its hundreds of varieties of teapots, such as the "doughnut" and "Aladdin" teapots, but is also a major restaurant and hotel supplier. Taylor, Smith and Taylor made Luray china, a set of which my mother purchased ca. 1950. I was thrilled to spend about an hour talking with manager Sarah Webster Vodrey, a 6th-generation descendant from potter Jabez Vodrey, who was one of the early arrivals . It turns out that her sister wrote the Centennial History of Hall China I had purchased this morning.
In the morning, before visiting the museum, I had taken the plant tour of Hall China, seeing 3 different methods of casting/shaping pottery, as well as the entire production process. Thus, I was able to recognize the machines and techniques in the movie at the Museum. I was joined on the Hall tour by a couple named "Hall," who collect Hall's autumn leaf pattern china.
I wanted to have lunch at Crockery City Cafe, which serves on bright colored local (Fiesta?) dishes, but it is closed on Wednesday. I settled instead on the 5th Street Sampler Cafe, which, as it turns out, also uses Fiesta.
Late in the afternoon, I ventured into the MASSIVE Pottery City Mall: 4 floors of antiques, mostly china, with lots of Fiesta. I went through only one floor in two hours. It's a good thing my car is full, as the prices were tempting. If you think about it, the dishes were made here, so there has to be a lot around, especially since the population is declining here. But a rusty, empty Bond Street Tobacco tin was priced at $8. I disposed of many, in nearly mint condition, in my father's estate.
OTHER CURIOSITIES
Cy Young was associated with the potteries here before going on to baseball.
I mentioned yesterday that Steubenville was Dean Martin's hometown. This year's Dean Martin Festival is June 14-17, so you still have time to make your reservations.
And Ohio is sponsoring a "Cast Iron Chef" Competition. Teams have to cook an entree, side dish, and a dessert, using cast iron cookware over a wood fire. Wonder how Mario would do. The final is on June 2 in Columbus.
The highlight of the day was my visit to the Museum of Ceramics, in East Liverpool's former Post Office building (1909). A movie and terrific exhibits chronicle the rise and decline of the city's pottery industry. (3 stars, Annette.)
The first pottery was started here in 1839 by an Englishman, John Bennett. He chose the area both for the clay, which is relatively free of impurities, and the ease of distribution afforded by the adjacent Ohio River. After some modest success, he sent for his brothers from England, and soon other English potters came as well. By 1850, three quarters of the potters were English. The town had been founded in 1799 and was slow to grow until the pottery industry developed, but became essentially a one-industry town. By 1900, 90% of the industrial wage earners were in ceramics manufacturing, at which time there were 239 kilns. Worse, in 1881, only 800 out of 2200 eligible children were in school; the rest worked in potteries. This situation continued until 1908 when Ohio adopted the Child Labor Act. The industry has had many ups and downs. When high protective tariffs were suddenly reduced, the once-protected potteries lowered wages, thus causing labor problems. Tariffs were raised once again when McKinley became president. He was from Eastern Ohio and was a good friend of John Taylor, one of the owners of Knowles, Taylor and Knowles. High tariffs didn't last, so that by 1936, 50% of all china came from Japan. Plastics and foreign competition meant that in 1940 the local industry had declined to only 6 firms. Two years ago, Hall China lost a long-time big customer, Longaberger, to production in China. Over 100 employees were let go and only one of its 4 expensive German automatic pressing machines is running. It is probably surviving by producing Fiesta for Homer Laughlin across the River. This story parallels that of most manufacturing in the US.
The Museum displays samples from many of the potteries that existed at various times since the beginnings. You have seen or maybe own dishes made by local potteries. Knowles, Taylor and Knowles, established in 1853, was the largest in the US by 1895, but survived only until 1929. By 1925, Homer Laughlin was the largest, due to its many technological innovations. Homer Laughlin is famous for Fiesta, but has made many other popular patterns. Harker, which was in existence from 1840 until 1972, and Hall, still in existence, but recently faltering, were also innovators. Hall is famous for its hundreds of varieties of teapots, such as the "doughnut" and "Aladdin" teapots, but is also a major restaurant and hotel supplier. Taylor, Smith and Taylor made Luray china, a set of which my mother purchased ca. 1950. I was thrilled to spend about an hour talking with manager Sarah Webster Vodrey, a 6th-generation descendant from potter Jabez Vodrey, who was one of the early arrivals . It turns out that her sister wrote the Centennial History of Hall China I had purchased this morning.
In the morning, before visiting the museum, I had taken the plant tour of Hall China, seeing 3 different methods of casting/shaping pottery, as well as the entire production process. Thus, I was able to recognize the machines and techniques in the movie at the Museum. I was joined on the Hall tour by a couple named "Hall," who collect Hall's autumn leaf pattern china.
I wanted to have lunch at Crockery City Cafe, which serves on bright colored local (Fiesta?) dishes, but it is closed on Wednesday. I settled instead on the 5th Street Sampler Cafe, which, as it turns out, also uses Fiesta.
Late in the afternoon, I ventured into the MASSIVE Pottery City Mall: 4 floors of antiques, mostly china, with lots of Fiesta. I went through only one floor in two hours. It's a good thing my car is full, as the prices were tempting. If you think about it, the dishes were made here, so there has to be a lot around, especially since the population is declining here. But a rusty, empty Bond Street Tobacco tin was priced at $8. I disposed of many, in nearly mint condition, in my father's estate.
OTHER CURIOSITIES
Cy Young was associated with the potteries here before going on to baseball.
I mentioned yesterday that Steubenville was Dean Martin's hometown. This year's Dean Martin Festival is June 14-17, so you still have time to make your reservations.
And Ohio is sponsoring a "Cast Iron Chef" Competition. Teams have to cook an entree, side dish, and a dessert, using cast iron cookware over a wood fire. Wonder how Mario would do. The final is on June 2 in Columbus.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Early Americans and Toys
Only one day out, & I have had to regroup. It was quite cool for several days in the DC area before I left, so naturally I packed warm shirts in the little bag I take into the motel with me. Now the weather where I am is in the 80's, so I have been switching clothes between the little bag and the big one I keep in the trunk of the car. At least it is not raining while I am standing outside the car, moving things around . The car is already a total mess, with maps & brochures everywhere. I have to try to get it under control each morning.
EARLY AMERICANS
About 15 miles south of Wheeling, in the town of Moundsville, is the Grave Creek Mound, one of the largest of the burial mounds built by the Adena people. It was constructed in stages between about 250 - 150 BC. In 1838 this one was measured at 69 feet high and with a base of 295 feet in diameter. Originally, it was encircled by a moat about 40 feet in width. Quite an impressive mound! These mounds were constructed for the burial of "honored persons." At one time there were numerous mounds in this area, giving the town its name. Most of them have been destroyed or sunken over time. The 1st settler of the town, Joseph Tomlinson, discovered the mound in 1770; Tomlinson would not allow demolition of the mound, which stayed in the family for a few generations, then passed into other hands. The first excavation was in 1838. Later owners built a saloon on top, then a dance platform, and even had a race track around the bottom. During the Civil War Union soldiers had cannon on the top. The mound was nearly destroyed in the early 20th century before the State of West Virginia finally purchased the site. For a time, it was cared for by the (old) West Virginia State Penitentiary, which is right across the street.
The Adena culture ended in the Ohio River Valley about 200 AD; they moved and/or were gradually blended with the later Hopewell culture.
The West Virginia State Penitentiary is now closed, but tours are very popular with school children, who were swarming the mound after their tour of the "pen."
TOYS
It turns out that little Moundsville has another attraction: the "Official" Marx Toy Museum. Marx Toys was founded by Louis Marx in 1919; he sold it in 1972, but without his personal vision, it didn't last much longer. The largest of his 3 factories was in Glen Dale, WV, right next to Moundsville. The museum has thousands of toys on display, with lots of complete playsets including dozens of pieces and figures, such as western towns, train displays, service stations, and sets with a movie or TV theme, such as Ben Hur and Gunsmoke. Remember Big Wheels and Rock-Em Sock-Em Robots? The museum also contains a vintage 1950's cafe with a Coca Cola theme.
LUNCH AND WESTWARD
I finally headed West after lunch at Coleman's FishMarket in the historic Centre Market back in Wheeling, recommended by the Road Food folks. ($5.56 total for lobster bisque, crabcake, and a root beer.) I succumbed to the used book store in the market, but bought only one book for $1.50, Jonathan Raban's Old Glory, An American Voyage, his memoir of travels on the Mississipi River. I thought it appropriate to read on this trip. Westward meant crossing the Ohio River (3 times), but no further west. One of the crossings was on the wonderful old suspension bridge on the National Road. The 1849 bridge, still in use, was the first bridge to cross the Ohio River and at the time was the longest single span bridge ever built, 1010' in length. But cars must be at least 50' apart while crossing.
DETOUR NORTH
North from I70, along the River, is the Ohio town of Steubenville. Fort Steuben was built to protect the surveyors measuring the land ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Paris after the Revolution. This area, known as the Northwest Territory, comprised what is now Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota. The Continental Congress wanted to sell the land to raise money to operate. Some land was also used as bounty land to pay Revolutionary War Soldiers. My ancestor Palfrey Downing received Ohio bounty land, but sold the certificate. Next to the reconstructed fort is the actual First Federal Land Office of the United States, built in 1801. Steubenville's other claim to fame is as the home town of Dean Martin.
Further north is East Liverpool, once a leading producer of pottery. With an area rich in natural clay and coal, the city made about half the nation's pottery until the industry declined in the 1930s. Hall China is still operating here and Homer Laughlin (Fiesta, and other patterns) is right across the river in West Virginia. The local high school sports teams are the "Potters." More tomorrow. Will one day be enough?
Why did the news of rising gas prices come the day I started my trip?
EARLY AMERICANS
About 15 miles south of Wheeling, in the town of Moundsville, is the Grave Creek Mound, one of the largest of the burial mounds built by the Adena people. It was constructed in stages between about 250 - 150 BC. In 1838 this one was measured at 69 feet high and with a base of 295 feet in diameter. Originally, it was encircled by a moat about 40 feet in width. Quite an impressive mound! These mounds were constructed for the burial of "honored persons." At one time there were numerous mounds in this area, giving the town its name. Most of them have been destroyed or sunken over time. The 1st settler of the town, Joseph Tomlinson, discovered the mound in 1770; Tomlinson would not allow demolition of the mound, which stayed in the family for a few generations, then passed into other hands. The first excavation was in 1838. Later owners built a saloon on top, then a dance platform, and even had a race track around the bottom. During the Civil War Union soldiers had cannon on the top. The mound was nearly destroyed in the early 20th century before the State of West Virginia finally purchased the site. For a time, it was cared for by the (old) West Virginia State Penitentiary, which is right across the street.
The Adena culture ended in the Ohio River Valley about 200 AD; they moved and/or were gradually blended with the later Hopewell culture.
The West Virginia State Penitentiary is now closed, but tours are very popular with school children, who were swarming the mound after their tour of the "pen."
TOYS
It turns out that little Moundsville has another attraction: the "Official" Marx Toy Museum. Marx Toys was founded by Louis Marx in 1919; he sold it in 1972, but without his personal vision, it didn't last much longer. The largest of his 3 factories was in Glen Dale, WV, right next to Moundsville. The museum has thousands of toys on display, with lots of complete playsets including dozens of pieces and figures, such as western towns, train displays, service stations, and sets with a movie or TV theme, such as Ben Hur and Gunsmoke. Remember Big Wheels and Rock-Em Sock-Em Robots? The museum also contains a vintage 1950's cafe with a Coca Cola theme.
LUNCH AND WESTWARD
I finally headed West after lunch at Coleman's FishMarket in the historic Centre Market back in Wheeling, recommended by the Road Food folks. ($5.56 total for lobster bisque, crabcake, and a root beer.) I succumbed to the used book store in the market, but bought only one book for $1.50, Jonathan Raban's Old Glory, An American Voyage, his memoir of travels on the Mississipi River. I thought it appropriate to read on this trip. Westward meant crossing the Ohio River (3 times), but no further west. One of the crossings was on the wonderful old suspension bridge on the National Road. The 1849 bridge, still in use, was the first bridge to cross the Ohio River and at the time was the longest single span bridge ever built, 1010' in length. But cars must be at least 50' apart while crossing.
DETOUR NORTH
North from I70, along the River, is the Ohio town of Steubenville. Fort Steuben was built to protect the surveyors measuring the land ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Paris after the Revolution. This area, known as the Northwest Territory, comprised what is now Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota. The Continental Congress wanted to sell the land to raise money to operate. Some land was also used as bounty land to pay Revolutionary War Soldiers. My ancestor Palfrey Downing received Ohio bounty land, but sold the certificate. Next to the reconstructed fort is the actual First Federal Land Office of the United States, built in 1801. Steubenville's other claim to fame is as the home town of Dean Martin.
Further north is East Liverpool, once a leading producer of pottery. With an area rich in natural clay and coal, the city made about half the nation's pottery until the industry declined in the 1930s. Hall China is still operating here and Homer Laughlin (Fiesta, and other patterns) is right across the river in West Virginia. The local high school sports teams are the "Potters." More tomorrow. Will one day be enough?
Why did the news of rising gas prices come the day I started my trip?
Monday, May 21, 2007
Westward Ho!
Not very original. Finally started on my latest adventure in late morning, after packing the car. And it is packed! Full! I brought East with me everything I thought I might possibly need for 6 to 8 months. And I have even shipped home half a dozen boxes already. Friend Annette says it looks like a body in the back seat, because I have plastic tablecloths covering the boxes and clothes bags piled up almost to the top of the seatback.
I spent 3 or 4 days planning out my route, so I could estimate when I might arrive in Salt Lake City and meet my mother to tour southwest Utah. Scheduling difficulties have already changed this plan, so she might meet me in Omaha for the trip through Nebraska and on to San Francisco. Trouble is, I want don’t want to miss anything interesting along the way. Annette thinks I may have to spend the winter in Nebraska if I follow this itinerary. I have been enjoying her hospitality for 3 weeks, and you know what they say about guests after only 3 days. A true friend!
I travelled less than 300 miles on my first day, to Wheeling, West Virginia, but managed to go through bits of 4 states: Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, as well as West Virginia, to the edge of Ohio. For now, will be following I-70, with only a few detours. Crossed the Monongahela River and went through the old “Wheeling Tunnel”, one of many old tunnels going through these hills. Wheeling is right on the Ohio River, a truly depressed town, trying hard to make a comeback, showing off its restored Victorian Houses. Also very proud of being on “The Historic National Road.”
The Historic National Road is the latest name for “The National Road,” the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. I’m sure they didn’t think of it exactly like that when it was first authorized in 1806 (not 1906). And then it was called the Cumberland Road, because construction started in Cumberland, MD in 1811, extending an existing road from Baltimore. It was to connect Maryland, Pennsylvania, what is now West Virginia (then still part of Virginia), Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. West of Wheeling, the route continued on the path of Zane’s Trace, the first road in Ohio. (Wheeling was founded by Ebenezer Zane in 1793.) The Road incorporated many earlier Indian trails and Colonial routes. It fostered the growth of inns and stagecoach lines along the route. The Road reached Wheeling in 1818, then to Vandalia, Illinois, the western end of the road, in 1839. Much later it was completed to East St. Louis, linking it to the Mississippi River. In the 1920s and 1930s it was incorporated as part of U.S. Route 40. After Interstate 70 was constructed under the limted-access interstate highway system authorized in 1956, US 40 was bypassed and became a secondary or scenic road. Many of the bypassed towns withered, like the ones on the old Route 66 out west.
I spent 3 or 4 days planning out my route, so I could estimate when I might arrive in Salt Lake City and meet my mother to tour southwest Utah. Scheduling difficulties have already changed this plan, so she might meet me in Omaha for the trip through Nebraska and on to San Francisco. Trouble is, I want don’t want to miss anything interesting along the way. Annette thinks I may have to spend the winter in Nebraska if I follow this itinerary. I have been enjoying her hospitality for 3 weeks, and you know what they say about guests after only 3 days. A true friend!
I travelled less than 300 miles on my first day, to Wheeling, West Virginia, but managed to go through bits of 4 states: Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, as well as West Virginia, to the edge of Ohio. For now, will be following I-70, with only a few detours. Crossed the Monongahela River and went through the old “Wheeling Tunnel”, one of many old tunnels going through these hills. Wheeling is right on the Ohio River, a truly depressed town, trying hard to make a comeback, showing off its restored Victorian Houses. Also very proud of being on “The Historic National Road.”
The Historic National Road is the latest name for “The National Road,” the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. I’m sure they didn’t think of it exactly like that when it was first authorized in 1806 (not 1906). And then it was called the Cumberland Road, because construction started in Cumberland, MD in 1811, extending an existing road from Baltimore. It was to connect Maryland, Pennsylvania, what is now West Virginia (then still part of Virginia), Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. West of Wheeling, the route continued on the path of Zane’s Trace, the first road in Ohio. (Wheeling was founded by Ebenezer Zane in 1793.) The Road incorporated many earlier Indian trails and Colonial routes. It fostered the growth of inns and stagecoach lines along the route. The Road reached Wheeling in 1818, then to Vandalia, Illinois, the western end of the road, in 1839. Much later it was completed to East St. Louis, linking it to the Mississippi River. In the 1920s and 1930s it was incorporated as part of U.S. Route 40. After Interstate 70 was constructed under the limted-access interstate highway system authorized in 1956, US 40 was bypassed and became a secondary or scenic road. Many of the bypassed towns withered, like the ones on the old Route 66 out west.
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