Sunday I completed the final leg of my trip home to Vista. I left Daly City late in the morning, stopping at Andy Mariani's fruit orchard in Morgan Hill. It was cherry tasting day, with at least 40 varieties to taste. I was under directions to bring some to friend Steve Facciola, so Andy gave me a slew of paper bags, into each of which I put a handful of one variety, being careful to label the bag. Very important step, as Steve is an authority on edible plants and is working on the 3rd edition of his sourcebook, Cornucopia. I asked Andy if he had ever met my father, from his connection with the Rare Fruit Society. He hadn't but said he had heard of him. "He was legendary!"
Otherwise, the trip was non-eventful until I got near Santa Barbara. For some unknown reason the traffic crawled from north of Goleta to way south of Carpinteria. It took me an hour and a half to go 30 miles. Lots of traffic going through L.A., as usual, but it moved pretty well. The Angelenos really know how to deal with traffic, they have enough practice. With stops for lunch and dinner, I didn't get home until after 11 pm. But the house was cleaner than when I had left it nearly 8 months ago! Steve did it! Good thing I stopped to get those cherries.
It is wonderful to be back in California. Jacaranda is in bloom in the southern half of the state. Beautiful! Even better to sleep in my own bed and to have a wonderful pot of tea in the morning.
[See the comment on my previous post re arriving in Daly City. I could not post to the blog from Mother's computer, tho I could comment.]
Monday, June 18, 2007
Monday, June 11, 2007
Basques in Nevada
We are keeping to the straight and narrow. No side trips. No museums, tempting though they are. Lots of road work on I-80, sometimes for 10 miles at a stretch. We had planned to have lunch in or near Salt Lake City. For some reason, I turned off at the Park City exit, remembering the three wonderful ski vacations we had there. But right near the exit (still 6 miles from Park City) was a shopping center. I pulled in to look for a restaurant and right away found "Good Thymes Bistro," with outdoor seating. We both had the melted brie & chicken quesadilla, served with a yummy salsa with a very slight tinge of curry. Terrific! Both Mother & I independently thought our server looked a lot like Paul Boissevain. Casey Rommel is a pre-med student at Colorado College, and his mother went to S.F. State before Mother and Guido retired. We gave him their names to ask his mother if she knew either one. A charming young man who will go far. Fun to talk to. (Even though Joel told me not to talk to strangers.)
We passed the Great Salt Lake, and then a huge salt evaporation reservoir coming from the lake. Wonderful snow-capped mountains to the south of us most of the way. We seem to be following the Emigrant Trail. We knew when we got to the Nevada state line from all the casinos.
Even though we gained another hour and are now on Pacific time, we stopped fairly early at Elko, Nevada for the night. We chose a Basque restaurant for dinner, since that's where you should eat in Nevada, and lamb is what you should eat, since the Basques are/were sheepherders here. If you have never eaten in a Basque restaurant, you may not be familiar with the QUANTITY of food. Mother and I split one dinner order of lamb chops and could not finish all the food: a big bowl of bean soup AND a big bowl of salad AND spaghetti AND baked potato AND a bowl of steamed veggies AND sheepherder's bread AND the lamb chops. Kind of reminded me of the fixed price meals we used to get in North Beach.
Will we make it to San Francisco tomorrow?
We passed the Great Salt Lake, and then a huge salt evaporation reservoir coming from the lake. Wonderful snow-capped mountains to the south of us most of the way. We seem to be following the Emigrant Trail. We knew when we got to the Nevada state line from all the casinos.
Even though we gained another hour and are now on Pacific time, we stopped fairly early at Elko, Nevada for the night. We chose a Basque restaurant for dinner, since that's where you should eat in Nevada, and lamb is what you should eat, since the Basques are/were sheepherders here. If you have never eaten in a Basque restaurant, you may not be familiar with the QUANTITY of food. Mother and I split one dinner order of lamb chops and could not finish all the food: a big bowl of bean soup AND a big bowl of salad AND spaghetti AND baked potato AND a bowl of steamed veggies AND sheepherder's bread AND the lamb chops. Kind of reminded me of the fixed price meals we used to get in North Beach.
Will we make it to San Francisco tomorrow?
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Back to I-80
Once again, I am following in my father's footsteps. After breakfast, Cousin Kyla brought over boxes of family photos. It turns out my father came to Scottsbluff in 1966, to her grandmother's funeral. There is a photo to prove it. I never knew he ever got to Scottsbluff, but I was in Brazil then. And I have been told I resemble Cousin Verla, but I haven't seen a picture of her, so I don't know about that.
By mid-morning, Mother & I headed south, back to I-80, to make tracks, finally, for Daly City. We passed some beautiful scenery in Wyoming, including one mountain pass at 8640'. Maybe that was the Continental Divide? Stopping for the night at Rock Springs, Wyoming. A little over 100 miles from Utah. And the car has gone over 3000 miles on this trip.
By mid-morning, Mother & I headed south, back to I-80, to make tracks, finally, for Daly City. We passed some beautiful scenery in Wyoming, including one mountain pass at 8640'. Maybe that was the Continental Divide? Stopping for the night at Rock Springs, Wyoming. A little over 100 miles from Utah. And the car has gone over 3000 miles on this trip.
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Scottsbluff and Cousins
Before breakfast on Saturday, in between our showers, Mother and I watched (most of) the French Open Women's Final. It was not the greatest match, as often happens when someone is in the final for the first time (Ivanovic) against an old-timer (Henin). After breakfast, we went off to see Scotts Bluff, another landmark for those making their way across the plains. The site was on the Oregon Trail and vestiges of the trail can still be seen. The visitor center has a short video, some exhibits, and a room full of paintings by Joseph Henry Jackson, done a half century after his crossing in the 1840s, based on his sketches at the time. One can also hike or drive to the summit of the bluff for a fantastic view. We chose to drive: there are three tunnels on the way. The bluffs are truly spectacular!
The (2nd) cousins gathered for lunch. Kyla lives in the area; her sister Dawna was returning home to Chadron (in the North) after depositing her son in Fort Collins for a 10-week summer internship and stopped here on the way. We all managed to meet and have lunch together at a restaurant cum coffeehouse, "The Emporium," in a cute little house. We sat outside on the front patio. We cousins had never met, but had no trouble exchanging lots of family stories. Kyla and Dawna's grandfather Jim Casselman was the brother of my grandmother, Jane Casselman Ballard. After lunch, Dawna headed back home, and Kyla drove us around. We saw some of the buildings built by Grandfather Jim about 100 years ago, including the first bank in town and the high school, now a middle school. At the cemetery, I took photos of the Casselman gravestones. Finally we saw the home her grandparents bought to live in in Scottsbluff; they had each homesteaded elsewhere. Kyla and her husband and son are renovating the house. Lots of beautiful tilework inspired by their son's stay in Italy.
Mother and I truly enjoyed Nebraska. Meeting such compatible relatives was an unexpected added bonus. Tomorrow it's on to Wyoming.
The (2nd) cousins gathered for lunch. Kyla lives in the area; her sister Dawna was returning home to Chadron (in the North) after depositing her son in Fort Collins for a 10-week summer internship and stopped here on the way. We all managed to meet and have lunch together at a restaurant cum coffeehouse, "The Emporium," in a cute little house. We sat outside on the front patio. We cousins had never met, but had no trouble exchanging lots of family stories. Kyla and Dawna's grandfather Jim Casselman was the brother of my grandmother, Jane Casselman Ballard. After lunch, Dawna headed back home, and Kyla drove us around. We saw some of the buildings built by Grandfather Jim about 100 years ago, including the first bank in town and the high school, now a middle school. At the cemetery, I took photos of the Casselman gravestones. Finally we saw the home her grandparents bought to live in in Scottsbluff; they had each homesteaded elsewhere. Kyla and her husband and son are renovating the house. Lots of beautiful tilework inspired by their son's stay in Italy.
Mother and I truly enjoyed Nebraska. Meeting such compatible relatives was an unexpected added bonus. Tomorrow it's on to Wyoming.
100th Meridian, Buffalo Bill, and Chimney Rock
Friday's weather was calm, at last. Our goal today was Scottsbluff, and we made it! We are almost in Wyoming. Along the way we passed the 100th Meridian at Cozad. This is supposedly the point which divides the wetter eastern topography from the drier western climate. Not long after that, we gained another hour and are now in the Mountain Time zone.
A stop for lunch at North Platte after visiting the Buffalo Bill Ranch. It is owned and run by the State of Nebraska and thus suffers from low funding so that exhibits are poorly labelled, if at all. And recent funding cuts meant personnel cuts, so they no longer have anyone to show the video with actual film clips from one of his Wild West Shows. Still, it was fun to see the house and the barn, with an exhibit relating to Annie Oakley and Frank Butler in the farthest corner.
Our last stop before reaching Scottsbluff was at Chimney Rock, which you really can see from miles away. On our route we could see it from about 20 miles; the pioneers saw it from at least 40 miles. It was the most noted landscape feature in pioneer diaries. It really looks like an upside down funnel. We did manage to see the video and were about 2/3 through the exhibits when they announced closing time and threw us out with no pre-warning.
Scottsbluff was not much farther and has more of those wonderful rock formations, which we will explore tomorrow. It also has cousins we will meet for the first time tomorrow. We had dinner at Whiskey Creek, across the street from the motel. The kind of place where you throw your peanut shells on the floor. I had a great steak. After all, we are still in Nebraska.
A stop for lunch at North Platte after visiting the Buffalo Bill Ranch. It is owned and run by the State of Nebraska and thus suffers from low funding so that exhibits are poorly labelled, if at all. And recent funding cuts meant personnel cuts, so they no longer have anyone to show the video with actual film clips from one of his Wild West Shows. Still, it was fun to see the house and the barn, with an exhibit relating to Annie Oakley and Frank Butler in the farthest corner.
Our last stop before reaching Scottsbluff was at Chimney Rock, which you really can see from miles away. On our route we could see it from about 20 miles; the pioneers saw it from at least 40 miles. It was the most noted landscape feature in pioneer diaries. It really looks like an upside down funnel. We did manage to see the video and were about 2/3 through the exhibits when they announced closing time and threw us out with no pre-warning.
Scottsbluff was not much farther and has more of those wonderful rock formations, which we will explore tomorrow. It also has cousins we will meet for the first time tomorrow. We had dinner at Whiskey Creek, across the street from the motel. The kind of place where you throw your peanut shells on the floor. I had a great steak. After all, we are still in Nebraska.
Friday, June 8, 2007
Pilgrimage to Red Cloud
We started our day on Thursday at the Hastings Museum of Natural and Cultural History, a real gem of all aspects of Nebraska history. Of special interest to me was the Kool-Aid exhibit, showing its development in the area, to success, to sale to General Foods. I have fond memories of mountain hikes from Lake Kirkwood, as a youngster, when we always took along Kool-Aid for our lunch-time drinks, and used it to flavor stream and lake water. I am not sure we can drink from those same streams and lakes now.
We had lunch at the nearby O.K. Cafe, as recommended by museum personnel. It was clearly the most popular place in town, and a museum in its own right. Several model trains were running around the edges of the walls, up near the ceiling. The cafe was also full of old time dishes, kitchen implements, dolls, and you name it on display. I had chiles rellenos and Mother had a fried egg sandwich.
Off south to Red Cloud, where Willa Cather grew up, and which inspired many of the characters in her books. We took the "tour" of the Cather home at the time, the bank, which figures in one of her books, and the Opera House. Our guide was a good friend of Mildred Bennett, who wrote the biography I am reading, and who also roped our guide into working with the Willa Cather Historic Site starting way back in 1955 and has been at it ever since. I was glad to know I was reading the "good" biography. And we got lots of extra "inside" stories.
For the most part, the day's weather was much better than on Wednesday, since we were far south of I-80. Only a little wind in Hastings in the morning. But later, as we headed back up north to I-80, the winds really picked up, and we went through a few of those dark patchy areas where you can't see. This was the remnants in Nebraska of the "severe weather" that hit the midwest with tornadoes in Wisconsin and tied up air traffic in Chicago.
We managed to make our way to Kearney and squeaked into the Great Platte River Road Archway Monument before closing. This museum is really an archway all the way over I-80. As you walk through, you experience successive methods of making the journey along the Great Platte River Road, starting with the pioneer's wagon train. A buffalo stampede is quite realistic. At the end you have a window down to cars speeding by on I-80 right below. We spent the night in Kearney, with a good dinner at "Sydney's", which was the motel restaurant.
We had lunch at the nearby O.K. Cafe, as recommended by museum personnel. It was clearly the most popular place in town, and a museum in its own right. Several model trains were running around the edges of the walls, up near the ceiling. The cafe was also full of old time dishes, kitchen implements, dolls, and you name it on display. I had chiles rellenos and Mother had a fried egg sandwich.
Off south to Red Cloud, where Willa Cather grew up, and which inspired many of the characters in her books. We took the "tour" of the Cather home at the time, the bank, which figures in one of her books, and the Opera House. Our guide was a good friend of Mildred Bennett, who wrote the biography I am reading, and who also roped our guide into working with the Willa Cather Historic Site starting way back in 1955 and has been at it ever since. I was glad to know I was reading the "good" biography. And we got lots of extra "inside" stories.
For the most part, the day's weather was much better than on Wednesday, since we were far south of I-80. Only a little wind in Hastings in the morning. But later, as we headed back up north to I-80, the winds really picked up, and we went through a few of those dark patchy areas where you can't see. This was the remnants in Nebraska of the "severe weather" that hit the midwest with tornadoes in Wisconsin and tied up air traffic in Chicago.
We managed to make our way to Kearney and squeaked into the Great Platte River Road Archway Monument before closing. This museum is really an archway all the way over I-80. As you walk through, you experience successive methods of making the journey along the Great Platte River Road, starting with the pioneer's wagon train. A buffalo stampede is quite realistic. At the end you have a window down to cars speeding by on I-80 right below. We spent the night in Kearney, with a good dinner at "Sydney's", which was the motel restaurant.
Thursday, June 7, 2007
Cousins, Runzas, and Tornados
I have at least 3 Casselman 2nd cousins in Nebraska, children of my father's 1st cousin Kyle Casselman, on his mother's side. I have been in correspondence with Dawna, who lives in Chadron, in the northwest part of the state. Don't know if we will be able to connect. Kyla lives in Scottsbluff, which we will pass through, so we hope to see her. Dawna and Kyla put me in touch with Cynthia, who lives not too far from Lincoln. We touched base by (many calls) phone Wednesday morning and managed to get together briefly before Mother and I left Lincoln. Cynthia brought along her mother, Shirley, who had attended my wedding just about 44 years ago. I had had no previous contact with Cynthia, but we had fun gossiping about the Casselmans in Canada and the "Southern Casselmans."
We didn't spend too much time together because Mother & I were trying to get out of Lincoln and as close to our next outpost before any really bad weather. As we were leaving the motel, someone told Mother about the incredible winds & thunderstorms & hail predicted. And it was pretty windy outside. We did see the beautiful art deco capitol building in Lincoln, but not any of the other great museums in town. Driving west got spookier and spookier. Several times we drove through patches of what seemed like brown fog--couldn't see very far ahead, then suddenly out of the patch. All the Nebraskans seemed to take it in stride. We stopped for gas, and I nearly got blown away when I went in to talk to the attendant. He said to worry if there were a sudden temperature drop. We bypassed two towns with good museums I had on my list and just kept going to Hastings, which is south of I-80, but on the way to Red Cloud. It was windy there too, but the worst weather was now north of us. The motel's guest directory had instructions re tornado warnings, tornado watches, etc. While we were watching bits of the French Open, we were told to watch another channel for the tornado advisory. The counties affected were north of us.
We didn't eat lunch until we got to Hastings. We found a "Runza," which seems to be a widespread Nebraska fast food chain. It could be elsewhere but it was new to us. In some towns there are more Runzas than McDonalds. Runza has a namesake signature sandwich: dough stuffed with ground beef & spices. We had the variation with cheese. Pretty tasty, but very filling. We found and closed a good Chinese restaurant for a late dinner, still full from our late Runza.
We didn't spend too much time together because Mother & I were trying to get out of Lincoln and as close to our next outpost before any really bad weather. As we were leaving the motel, someone told Mother about the incredible winds & thunderstorms & hail predicted. And it was pretty windy outside. We did see the beautiful art deco capitol building in Lincoln, but not any of the other great museums in town. Driving west got spookier and spookier. Several times we drove through patches of what seemed like brown fog--couldn't see very far ahead, then suddenly out of the patch. All the Nebraskans seemed to take it in stride. We stopped for gas, and I nearly got blown away when I went in to talk to the attendant. He said to worry if there were a sudden temperature drop. We bypassed two towns with good museums I had on my list and just kept going to Hastings, which is south of I-80, but on the way to Red Cloud. It was windy there too, but the worst weather was now north of us. The motel's guest directory had instructions re tornado warnings, tornado watches, etc. While we were watching bits of the French Open, we were told to watch another channel for the tornado advisory. The counties affected were north of us.
We didn't eat lunch until we got to Hastings. We found a "Runza," which seems to be a widespread Nebraska fast food chain. It could be elsewhere but it was new to us. In some towns there are more Runzas than McDonalds. Runza has a namesake signature sandwich: dough stuffed with ground beef & spices. We had the variation with cheese. Pretty tasty, but very filling. We found and closed a good Chinese restaurant for a late dinner, still full from our late Runza.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Council Bluffs to Lincoln
Though I have been sightseeing mostly in Omaha (Nebraska), I have been sleeping across the Missouri River in Council Bluffs (Iowa). For centuries the area was the site for Indian ceremonial powwows. Lewis and Clark met Otoe and Missouri Indians here in 1804. The Mormons first built the town and called it Kanesville after a friend of Brigham Young's, during the time of their mass movement Westward. After the Mormons left, it was renamed Council Bluffs. Four major trails passed through or near here: Lewis & Clark, Mormon, California, and Oregon. Pioneers stocked up here before proceeding further west. And when the railroads replaced the pioneer trails, it became the eastern terminus for the Union Pacific Railroad. It really set the scene for our drive west.
I saved Council Bluffs for Mother's arrival, as I knew she would be interested in the two places I wanted to visit. After checking out of our motel Tuesday morning, we went first to the Western Historic Trails Center, which is reached via a mile-long road through prairie plantings. It has terrific displays show the history of traveling west, with sculptures & historic photographs and postcards showing life along the trails. It even has about a dozen Karl Bodmer lithographs on loan from the Joslyn Art Museum.
Next we went to the Union Pacific Railroad Museum, of interest because Mother's father worked for Northern Pacific Railroad for many years. This museum moved into the old Carnegie Library a few years ago.
After lunch at the local Duncan's Cafe in an old hotel, we finally set off for Lincoln. Having made it about an hour away from our starting location, we found lodgings and drove around the city. We found a wonderful "Sunken Garden," full of children running around. Dinner at a brewpub in the historic Haymarket area, like the Old Market area in Omaha. Several good museums in Lincoln for Wednesday.
I saved Council Bluffs for Mother's arrival, as I knew she would be interested in the two places I wanted to visit. After checking out of our motel Tuesday morning, we went first to the Western Historic Trails Center, which is reached via a mile-long road through prairie plantings. It has terrific displays show the history of traveling west, with sculptures & historic photographs and postcards showing life along the trails. It even has about a dozen Karl Bodmer lithographs on loan from the Joslyn Art Museum.
Next we went to the Union Pacific Railroad Museum, of interest because Mother's father worked for Northern Pacific Railroad for many years. This museum moved into the old Carnegie Library a few years ago.
After lunch at the local Duncan's Cafe in an old hotel, we finally set off for Lincoln. Having made it about an hour away from our starting location, we found lodgings and drove around the city. We found a wonderful "Sunken Garden," full of children running around. Dinner at a brewpub in the historic Haymarket area, like the Old Market area in Omaha. Several good museums in Lincoln for Wednesday.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
Mother joins me
Mother's plane didn't get in until after 5pm, so I had another day in Omaha. First I went to the Nebraska Welcome Center & picked up another 5 pounds of tourist material. Actually, they were very helpful about the things I am interested in seeing. In North Carolina, when I asked for historical sights, the person in the center wanted to send me to a mall or an outlet center.
Next I visited Omaha's Botanical Center, the Lauritzen Gardens. The best thing is a narrated tram ride ($2) through the gardens, with a 10-minute stop at the rose garden. This center is fairly new, about 5 years old, so is still a work in progress. There is also a bird sanctuary and, in a nearby park on the tram ride, 2 famous Union Pacific locomotives on display for all you railroad fans: Big Boy No. 4023 (diesel) and Centennial No.6900 (I think he said diesel-electric).
I also visited the Mormon Trail Center, in the northern part of Omaha, actually the town of Florence. The was the site of the Mormon Winter Quarters after they were kicked out of Nauvoo and set off in search of Zion. When they got to the Missouri River, they realized they couldn't go any further before winter. They ended up staying here 2 years before going on to find and found Salt Lake City. One of the things on display was a replica handcart, which many poor pioneers used as a "fast," inexpensive way to cross the plains from 1856 to 1860, until better ways to travel evolved. It's hard to imagine walking 1000+ miles while pulling one of these.
Mother arrived without incident, but her suitcase didn't. So we went out to dinner. I tried to take her to M's Pub in the Old Market Center, a jumping place, but it was full of the after-work-drinking crowd, with a 1-hour wait. So we went across the street to the French Cafe, where I had eaten Friday night. She loved sitting outside. I had pumpkin-seed-encrusted trout, and she had crabcakes. Her suitcase arrived at the motel a few minutes after we got back from dinner.
Did you know Nebraska has the only unicameral legislature?
Next I visited Omaha's Botanical Center, the Lauritzen Gardens. The best thing is a narrated tram ride ($2) through the gardens, with a 10-minute stop at the rose garden. This center is fairly new, about 5 years old, so is still a work in progress. There is also a bird sanctuary and, in a nearby park on the tram ride, 2 famous Union Pacific locomotives on display for all you railroad fans: Big Boy No. 4023 (diesel) and Centennial No.6900 (I think he said diesel-electric).
I also visited the Mormon Trail Center, in the northern part of Omaha, actually the town of Florence. The was the site of the Mormon Winter Quarters after they were kicked out of Nauvoo and set off in search of Zion. When they got to the Missouri River, they realized they couldn't go any further before winter. They ended up staying here 2 years before going on to find and found Salt Lake City. One of the things on display was a replica handcart, which many poor pioneers used as a "fast," inexpensive way to cross the plains from 1856 to 1860, until better ways to travel evolved. It's hard to imagine walking 1000+ miles while pulling one of these.
Mother arrived without incident, but her suitcase didn't. So we went out to dinner. I tried to take her to M's Pub in the Old Market Center, a jumping place, but it was full of the after-work-drinking crowd, with a 1-hour wait. So we went across the street to the French Cafe, where I had eaten Friday night. She loved sitting outside. I had pumpkin-seed-encrusted trout, and she had crabcakes. Her suitcase arrived at the motel a few minutes after we got back from dinner.
Did you know Nebraska has the only unicameral legislature?
Monday, June 4, 2007
Sunday in Omaha
Like many cities, downtown Omaha is pretty dead on Sunday. But the tourists were still around the Old Market when I drove by on my way to Union Station. Union Pacific stopped passenger service to Omaha in 1971 and donated the building to the city. A few years later the Western Heritage Museum opened in the space. More recently, the station went through a massive renovation, and it is beautiful! Lots of sculptures in the waiting room: people waiting, talking, buying tickets, etc. The museum is now a Smithsonian Affiliate and has 3 terrific temporary exhibits:
All day today the local NPR station has been play programs relating to the 40th anniversary of "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band."
Before going out today, I watched the last few games of Sharapova vs. Schnyder at the French Open. I was really rooting for Patty, but Sharapova always hangs in there. I've seen almost none of the tennis because the broadcasts are in the afternoon when I am out running around.
Gas across the street is $2.99, the first I've seen under $3.
The weather forecasts seem to change hourly, but they usually involve "scattered" or "isolated thunderstorms." Such was the case today, but it was mostly sunny all day. I went out to the car for something a few hours after I got back from dinner, and saw it had rained a little in that time. I am concerned that the weather be good when Mother lands in Omaha on Monday afternoon. Most of the time, the forecast for Tuesday, when we start off, is for "sunny."
I usually travel like a gypsy, with things just thrown around in the car. But it's even worse this time, because when I went east last November, I took everything I thought I might possibly need for 8 months, including lots of paperwork and books. I read few of the books, as we had a terrific library nearby in Durham. I've shipped home most of the books, but everything else seems to have been breeding like crazy. And even though I've also shipped home 3 big boxes of other stuff, the car is like Fibber McGee's closet. I don't dare move anything. It's all in there, but where? My current task is to make room for my mother and her luggage. Right now, there is room for her OR her luggage, but by the time she gets here, I am confident there will be space for both.
- Windows on the West: Views from the American Frontier. A cross-section of paintings during the expansion of the west, from mid-19th century up to about 1930, including 3 lithographs by Karl Bodmer from the trip I described yesterday.
- The Signers. Short bios of the 56 signers of the Declaration of Independence, grouped by State, along with their signatures on a variety of other documents. (The youngest signer, at 26, was Edward Rutledge from South Carolina.) Most of the documents come from the museum's own collection; facsimiles of a handful were provided by the Library of Congress. I didn't know how much many of these signers suffered because of their rebellion. Some were captured by the British or had their estates vandalised and burned to the ground. And many suffered financially; some even dying in debtor's prison.
- Samuel Colt: Arms, Art and Invention. Colt was supposedly inspired by a ship's wheel, as a 16-year-old sailor, to invent a revolver cylinder that would automatically rotate as the hammer was cocked. He was also a genius at self-promotion. He commissioned artist George Catlin to create a series of paintings showing himself using a Colt firearm. Colt travelled extensively around the world, presenting gifts to officials and royalty, to get them to use his guns. The North bought thousands during the Civil War. On exhibit are many of the gifts he received in return, and much else besides firearms. This exhibit was organized by the Wadsworth Athaneum in Hartford, where his plant was located. His widow donated her collections to the Athaneum.
All day today the local NPR station has been play programs relating to the 40th anniversary of "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band."
Before going out today, I watched the last few games of Sharapova vs. Schnyder at the French Open. I was really rooting for Patty, but Sharapova always hangs in there. I've seen almost none of the tennis because the broadcasts are in the afternoon when I am out running around.
Gas across the street is $2.99, the first I've seen under $3.
The weather forecasts seem to change hourly, but they usually involve "scattered" or "isolated thunderstorms." Such was the case today, but it was mostly sunny all day. I went out to the car for something a few hours after I got back from dinner, and saw it had rained a little in that time. I am concerned that the weather be good when Mother lands in Omaha on Monday afternoon. Most of the time, the forecast for Tuesday, when we start off, is for "sunny."
I usually travel like a gypsy, with things just thrown around in the car. But it's even worse this time, because when I went east last November, I took everything I thought I might possibly need for 8 months, including lots of paperwork and books. I read few of the books, as we had a terrific library nearby in Durham. I've shipped home most of the books, but everything else seems to have been breeding like crazy. And even though I've also shipped home 3 big boxes of other stuff, the car is like Fibber McGee's closet. I don't dare move anything. It's all in there, but where? My current task is to make room for my mother and her luggage. Right now, there is room for her OR her luggage, but by the time she gets here, I am confident there will be space for both.
Sunday, June 3, 2007
Joslyn Art Museum
I am taking it easy for a few days, awaiting Mother, who will fly in to Omaha Monday afternoon to accompany me on the last segment of the trip. Omaha looks to be about half way across, but maybe not the way I travel. I have driven just under 2000 miles so far, which is not too bad. I drove 4500 miles in all, the first time I drove cross country in 1998.
I arrived at the Joslyn Art Museum in Omaha at 11:50 Saturday morning. Lucky me--Saturday mornings are free until noon. This is a beautiful Art Deco building, covered in pink marble, built in memory of local businessman George Joslyn by his widow. It has a little bit of everything, including Greek pottery, 19th Century art, Art of the American West, and a new Asian Arts section. One display case has a selection of Georg Jensen silver items. I loved the teapot with an ivory handle. The museum also has not one but two Dale Chihuly glass chandeliers.
But the gem of the museum is the Maximilian-Bodmer Collection. Unfortunately, I just missed the tour of the collection, which includes material relating to the expedition of German Prince Maximilian of Wied and Swiss artist Karl Bodmer across North America and up the Missouri River, to what is now Montana, in 1832-34. The prince was an amateur scientist who hired Bodmer to go along and make accurate drawings to accompany his own written account, which was published when they returned. The museum rotates the selection on view from the collection's immense holdings. An interesting note is that Max & Bodmer met up with General Clark in St. Louis. Clark had copies made of the maps produced on his & Lewis's 1804-06 journey to assist them, as they followed much of the same route from St. Louis. Many of Lewis & Clark's original maps have since been lost, so that these are the only visual copies extant of that portion of the journey.
I learned something else: Majolica pottery was introduced into Spain from Majorca (hence the name), where it was made by Moorish craftsmen. It spread to Italy and the rest of Europe from there. I never knew this, even tho I had lived in Majorca at one time (but I was very young).
The museum may be beautiful, but it certainly is confusing. Even with a map, I kept getting lost. I would be no good on an expedition. And the food is nothing to write home about, in contrast to many of the museum cafes I have tried. Semi-do-it-yourself sandwiches and undrinkable iced tea made from some kind of nasty powder. And can anyone tell me how to get mustard out of those little packets without getting it all over your hands?
I arrived at the Joslyn Art Museum in Omaha at 11:50 Saturday morning. Lucky me--Saturday mornings are free until noon. This is a beautiful Art Deco building, covered in pink marble, built in memory of local businessman George Joslyn by his widow. It has a little bit of everything, including Greek pottery, 19th Century art, Art of the American West, and a new Asian Arts section. One display case has a selection of Georg Jensen silver items. I loved the teapot with an ivory handle. The museum also has not one but two Dale Chihuly glass chandeliers.
But the gem of the museum is the Maximilian-Bodmer Collection. Unfortunately, I just missed the tour of the collection, which includes material relating to the expedition of German Prince Maximilian of Wied and Swiss artist Karl Bodmer across North America and up the Missouri River, to what is now Montana, in 1832-34. The prince was an amateur scientist who hired Bodmer to go along and make accurate drawings to accompany his own written account, which was published when they returned. The museum rotates the selection on view from the collection's immense holdings. An interesting note is that Max & Bodmer met up with General Clark in St. Louis. Clark had copies made of the maps produced on his & Lewis's 1804-06 journey to assist them, as they followed much of the same route from St. Louis. Many of Lewis & Clark's original maps have since been lost, so that these are the only visual copies extant of that portion of the journey.
I learned something else: Majolica pottery was introduced into Spain from Majorca (hence the name), where it was made by Moorish craftsmen. It spread to Italy and the rest of Europe from there. I never knew this, even tho I had lived in Majorca at one time (but I was very young).
The museum may be beautiful, but it certainly is confusing. Even with a map, I kept getting lost. I would be no good on an expedition. And the food is nothing to write home about, in contrast to many of the museum cafes I have tried. Semi-do-it-yourself sandwiches and undrinkable iced tea made from some kind of nasty powder. And can anyone tell me how to get mustard out of those little packets without getting it all over your hands?
Saturday, June 2, 2007
A Jewel in Grinnell
The Merchants National Bank building in Grinnell, Iowa, is one of the 8 "jewel-box" banks designed by Louis Sullivan late in his career. With a terra cotta ornamented portal, rose window, stained glass windows, elaborate glass mosaic around the clock, it is not to be missed if you are in the area.
Two railroads used to go through Grinnell, but railroad service ceased in the 1970s. I had lunch in the former depot, now the Depot Crossing Cafe. Good spinach salad with grilled chicken, strawberries, mandarin oranges, almonds, and dried cranberries.
Today, Friday, every kind of weather was about. Heavy mist when I got up, turning to drizzle, then rain, then stopping just before lunch. After lunch, I continued west, into sunshine, occasional heavy rain lasting 5 or 10 minutes. The radio kept giving severe thunderstorm & tornado warnings for the area I was in yesterday. As I got further west, the NPR stations gave way to country music. Good thing I didn't take any more side trips, as I got the last room at the Council Bluffs, Iowa, Best Western AKA Crossroads of the Bluffs. This is just across the Missouri River from Omaha, Nebraska. Iowa allows river gambling, so I am surrounded by casinos and it's the weekend, which may explain why it's so busy. Also, this area is still a central, jumping off spot for travelers.
I asked Garmin to take me to a French restaurant for dinner. He took me to the French Cafe, in what I later learned was the historic old market area. I thought I was in a Western movie. Original brick streets. The restaurant seems to be one of the best in Omaha, with Washington, DC prices to go along. I had a delicious rack of lamb, with "pomegranate and black pepper glaze, dried cherry demi-glace, served over white cheddar polenta" (think "grits," Michael). As Gabby would say, "Good eats." I sat outside in front, watching a zillion tourists go by.
Two railroads used to go through Grinnell, but railroad service ceased in the 1970s. I had lunch in the former depot, now the Depot Crossing Cafe. Good spinach salad with grilled chicken, strawberries, mandarin oranges, almonds, and dried cranberries.
Today, Friday, every kind of weather was about. Heavy mist when I got up, turning to drizzle, then rain, then stopping just before lunch. After lunch, I continued west, into sunshine, occasional heavy rain lasting 5 or 10 minutes. The radio kept giving severe thunderstorm & tornado warnings for the area I was in yesterday. As I got further west, the NPR stations gave way to country music. Good thing I didn't take any more side trips, as I got the last room at the Council Bluffs, Iowa, Best Western AKA Crossroads of the Bluffs. This is just across the Missouri River from Omaha, Nebraska. Iowa allows river gambling, so I am surrounded by casinos and it's the weekend, which may explain why it's so busy. Also, this area is still a central, jumping off spot for travelers.
I asked Garmin to take me to a French restaurant for dinner. He took me to the French Cafe, in what I later learned was the historic old market area. I thought I was in a Western movie. Original brick streets. The restaurant seems to be one of the best in Omaha, with Washington, DC prices to go along. I had a delicious rack of lamb, with "pomegranate and black pepper glaze, dried cherry demi-glace, served over white cheddar polenta" (think "grits," Michael). As Gabby would say, "Good eats." I sat outside in front, watching a zillion tourists go by.
Friday, June 1, 2007
Swedes in Illinois
Many Swedes and Germans and other European groups settled early in Illinois, lured by the promise of land. All over the mid-west are remnants of communities established by one nationality or another: the Dutch city of Pella, Iowa, the Danish town of Elk Horn, Iowa, the Swedish colony of Bishop Hill, Illinois, and many others.
Bishop Hill was founded in 1846 by Erik Jansson, leader of a dissident Swedish religious group, who was preaching against the state Lutheran Church. Followers saw him as the second coming of Christ; they liquidated all assets, pooled their money, and came to Illinois. Jansson was in total control. The new town was named for the one that Jansson came from in Sweden. Eventually over 1000 followers came. In fact, during the second half of the 19th century, over 1/4 of Swedes came to America.
Bishop Hill was a communal colony, eventually growing to over 12,000 acres. It became very profitable for a while, from manufacture of tools, textiles, brooms, etc. But the leader was murdered in 1850, and 7 trustees took charge. Things went downhill after the depression of 1857 and a series of bad investments made by some of the trustees. The Colony was dissolved in 1861, having lasted only 15 years, and the property was distributed to the members. The story is like that of other utopias that lose their charismatic leader.
There were many other Swedes in the nearby area, as well. Carl Sandburg was born in Galesburg to Swedish immigrants. And Galesburg is indeed a railroad town, as Russell said. I was on my way to visit the Carl Sandburg historic site Thursday morning when a long freight train just sat on the tracks blocking the route into town. I gave up after 15 minutes and headed for Bishop Hill via back roads. (Thank you, Garmin.) The landscape was really, really flat, and even the back roads are totally straight. I stopped at the Bishop Hill Museum and saw a short video about the history of the town and about Olof Krans, whose paintings are exhibited. Krans came to the Colony from Sweden in 1850 at the age of 12. He left in 1861, and served in the Civil War. Late in life he began painting, in a folk art style, depicting many of the original settlers and scenes he remembered from the early days of Bishop Hill. He even painted scenes from Sweden before he left. The museum has over 100 of his paintings, and many can still be found in the area, belonging to descendants of the original families. The hostess at the museum is descended from original settlers and lives in one of the original houses. But the current population of the town is only about 130, and only about 1/3 are such descendants.
The whole village is a National Historic Landmark. Many of the original 20 plus buildings still exist and have been renovated or are in the process. Some are open as museums; many are now used for little shops. You can buy Swedish arts and crafts, as well as those made by local artists. The town is open for tourists, but doesn't seem tacky. Greeters in each building are dressed in period costume, most notably Swedish-style shirts. Two restaurants offer Swedish food. I had Swedish meatballs for lunch.
I had felt compelled to visit Bishop Hill because of my 1/4 Swedish ancestry (Mother's mother was born in Minnesota to Swedish immigrants). I left after a several-hour stay and headed back northwest to I-74 and I-80, crossing the Mississippi River into Iowa at Quad Cities. I was lucky: it was sunny when I crossed. A day later, tornadoes ripped through here at about the same time.
I drove on to Grinnell, Iowa for the night. I stayed at the Best Western in what felt like a micro-room. It was comfortable & had everything I needed, but it reminded me of the Edison Hotel in New York City. I remembered to call home for messages, which I hadn't done in several weeks: 39 messages, mostly empty, only 1 was personal. I went into town to dinner at the Phoenix in an old house next to the park, where the Thursday night concert performed by "Route 66" (country swing) could be heard through the open windows. An interesting menu: lots of seafood, salads, and vegetarian dishes for the college crowd. I was still pretty full from the Swedish lunch, so I just had a simple chicken dish with a mild curry sauce. A couple at a nearby table both teach mathematics at the college. There was also a family with a young (1 1/2 year old) daughter, who kept making me think of Clea. They were here for some sort of reunion weekend. Mr. math teacher recognized the mother as having been in one of his classes a few years ago. Fun to listen in.
I neglected to mention some notables who came from Columbus, Indiana: The Four Freshmen and Charles "Chuck" Taylor of Chuckee Cheese fame. Also, see the September 1978 issue of National Geographic to read more about the city.
Bishop Hill was founded in 1846 by Erik Jansson, leader of a dissident Swedish religious group, who was preaching against the state Lutheran Church. Followers saw him as the second coming of Christ; they liquidated all assets, pooled their money, and came to Illinois. Jansson was in total control. The new town was named for the one that Jansson came from in Sweden. Eventually over 1000 followers came. In fact, during the second half of the 19th century, over 1/4 of Swedes came to America.
Bishop Hill was a communal colony, eventually growing to over 12,000 acres. It became very profitable for a while, from manufacture of tools, textiles, brooms, etc. But the leader was murdered in 1850, and 7 trustees took charge. Things went downhill after the depression of 1857 and a series of bad investments made by some of the trustees. The Colony was dissolved in 1861, having lasted only 15 years, and the property was distributed to the members. The story is like that of other utopias that lose their charismatic leader.
There were many other Swedes in the nearby area, as well. Carl Sandburg was born in Galesburg to Swedish immigrants. And Galesburg is indeed a railroad town, as Russell said. I was on my way to visit the Carl Sandburg historic site Thursday morning when a long freight train just sat on the tracks blocking the route into town. I gave up after 15 minutes and headed for Bishop Hill via back roads. (Thank you, Garmin.) The landscape was really, really flat, and even the back roads are totally straight. I stopped at the Bishop Hill Museum and saw a short video about the history of the town and about Olof Krans, whose paintings are exhibited. Krans came to the Colony from Sweden in 1850 at the age of 12. He left in 1861, and served in the Civil War. Late in life he began painting, in a folk art style, depicting many of the original settlers and scenes he remembered from the early days of Bishop Hill. He even painted scenes from Sweden before he left. The museum has over 100 of his paintings, and many can still be found in the area, belonging to descendants of the original families. The hostess at the museum is descended from original settlers and lives in one of the original houses. But the current population of the town is only about 130, and only about 1/3 are such descendants.
The whole village is a National Historic Landmark. Many of the original 20 plus buildings still exist and have been renovated or are in the process. Some are open as museums; many are now used for little shops. You can buy Swedish arts and crafts, as well as those made by local artists. The town is open for tourists, but doesn't seem tacky. Greeters in each building are dressed in period costume, most notably Swedish-style shirts. Two restaurants offer Swedish food. I had Swedish meatballs for lunch.
I had felt compelled to visit Bishop Hill because of my 1/4 Swedish ancestry (Mother's mother was born in Minnesota to Swedish immigrants). I left after a several-hour stay and headed back northwest to I-74 and I-80, crossing the Mississippi River into Iowa at Quad Cities. I was lucky: it was sunny when I crossed. A day later, tornadoes ripped through here at about the same time.
I drove on to Grinnell, Iowa for the night. I stayed at the Best Western in what felt like a micro-room. It was comfortable & had everything I needed, but it reminded me of the Edison Hotel in New York City. I remembered to call home for messages, which I hadn't done in several weeks: 39 messages, mostly empty, only 1 was personal. I went into town to dinner at the Phoenix in an old house next to the park, where the Thursday night concert performed by "Route 66" (country swing) could be heard through the open windows. An interesting menu: lots of seafood, salads, and vegetarian dishes for the college crowd. I was still pretty full from the Swedish lunch, so I just had a simple chicken dish with a mild curry sauce. A couple at a nearby table both teach mathematics at the college. There was also a family with a young (1 1/2 year old) daughter, who kept making me think of Clea. They were here for some sort of reunion weekend. Mr. math teacher recognized the mother as having been in one of his classes a few years ago. Fun to listen in.
I neglected to mention some notables who came from Columbus, Indiana: The Four Freshmen and Charles "Chuck" Taylor of Chuckee Cheese fame. Also, see the September 1978 issue of National Geographic to read more about the city.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Finally gained an hour
Left Indianapolis Wednesday after 3 nights at the "Comfort" Inn South, which has some serious hot water problems. Before leaving, I visited the James Whitcomb Riley Museum on Lockerbie Street, the only remaining cobblestone street in Indianapolis. Riley lived there as the guest of a wealthy family for the last 30 years of his life. He was an extremely popular, prolific, & well-known poet during his life, even going on the lecture circuit with Mark Twain, but his star has since faded outside Indiana. Few now know him as the author of "Little Orphant Annie" and "Raggedy Man." The latter was the inspiration for Johnny Gruelle, the son of a good friend, to create a "Raggedy Ann" doll for his daughter when she was ill. The stories followed.
After only 9 days on the road, I finally gained an hour when I crossed into Illinois, taking I-74 northwest, to meet up eventually with I-80 at the Quad Cities. But the speed limit went down to 65 from 70. I am told it will go back up in Iowa or Nebraska.
Stopped for the night in Galesburg at the the Best Western Prairie Inn. It is a lovely hotel, with all rooms decorated in prairie style, including furniture & fixtures in my room. Downtown is charming and immaculate, with lots of planters full of flowers and many old buildings retrofitted for current use. I am told by my friend Russell that it is an important railroad town, and I see on the map that several lines cross here. You will all be glad to know I had an excellent dinner with perfect service Chez Willys: seared duck breast served with roesti potatoes. A Coppola claret to drink. Restaurant was delightful, bistro like, decorated with contemporary pottery on shelves and walls made by a local potter. I talked for a few minutes with Willy, who is probably mid- to late-50's. He is local, but lived for 7 or 8 years in the Bay Area in the wild 70's before returning here because it was just too expensive there. Even so he wishes he had been able to buy a house there then.
After only 9 days on the road, I finally gained an hour when I crossed into Illinois, taking I-74 northwest, to meet up eventually with I-80 at the Quad Cities. But the speed limit went down to 65 from 70. I am told it will go back up in Iowa or Nebraska.
Stopped for the night in Galesburg at the the Best Western Prairie Inn. It is a lovely hotel, with all rooms decorated in prairie style, including furniture & fixtures in my room. Downtown is charming and immaculate, with lots of planters full of flowers and many old buildings retrofitted for current use. I am told by my friend Russell that it is an important railroad town, and I see on the map that several lines cross here. You will all be glad to know I had an excellent dinner with perfect service Chez Willys: seared duck breast served with roesti potatoes. A Coppola claret to drink. Restaurant was delightful, bistro like, decorated with contemporary pottery on shelves and walls made by a local potter. I talked for a few minutes with Willy, who is probably mid- to late-50's. He is local, but lived for 7 or 8 years in the Bay Area in the wild 70's before returning here because it was just too expensive there. Even so he wishes he had been able to buy a house there then.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
A Day in the Country
"Different by Design"
That's the motto of Columbus, Indiana, a town of 39,000, about 45 miles south of Indianapolis. It all started back in 1942 when the First Christian Church needed a new building. It selected Eliel Saarinen as architect. This was the first contemporary church in the United States. Later, in the 50's, when more schools were needed for the baby boomers, the local big employer, Cummins Engine Co. [specializing in diesel engines for automobiles], set up a foundation and panel to pay the architect fees for building new schools, then later for other public buildings. The result is astounding. Buildings by I.M. Pei, Richard Meier, Cesar Pelli, Harry Weese, Eero Saarinen, Robert Venturi, and many other names that architecture aficionados would recognize. Tuesday I took the 2-hour tour given by the visitor center, which is amazing in its own right with a gorgeous yellow glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. The tour was mostly by bus, but we went inside several of the churches. Spectacular, timeless, without being flashy. The architects aimed for "coherence" to the feeling of the town. We are in the prairie, so most building are low, not high rise, ala Frank Lloyd Wright. And landscaping must be included in the building plans. Many of the buildings have won awards by the AIA, which has named Columbus the sixth best city in the US for architecture, after Chicago, New York and the like. It is astounding in a city of this size. The town is also proud of many of its older, late 19th century, buildings which have been restored or renovated.
After the tour, I walked around a bit on my own. The library, next door to the visitor center, was designed by I.M. Pei. The mammoth sculpture "Large Arch," by Henry Moore, is out front in the library plaza, which is used for community events, such as a Pop Fest. A sculpture by Jean Tingley is in the Commons, a small in-town mall. The Cummins headquarters has a "museum" for visitors. On display is the "Exploded Engine," showing all the parts of a diesel engine. One can also see the only remaining 1934 Auburn car powered by a Cummins diesel engine and the winning car of the 1987 Indy 500 that was driven by Al Unser, Sr.
I had a delicious Thai Chicken Pasta salad for lunch at Cooks & Co., which has a kitchen specialty store next door, complete with a demonstration kitchen for cooking classes. Several people have asked me about food on the trip. Not much to write home about, but I haven't really been seeking out gourmet places. Too grubby & tired at the end of the day. But if lettuce is any indicator, in Ohio there was only iceberg, in Indiana it has been pretty much romaine and mixed greens.
People seem to love living in Columbus. The tour guide was originally from Scotland. She came here 35 years ago when her husband was transferred for a 2-year-stint with Cummins. I also talked with a woman in the library who moved here from San Diego about a year ago. She loves the seasons. (Her husband is a native Hoosier.)
A beautiful drive 20 miles east, through gentle rolling hills, to Nashville, in Brown County, Indiana, which markets itself as an "Artist Colony." 100 years ago, T.C. Steele, a famous Hoosier artist, moved to this area. He was a magnet for other mid-west artists who came to paint in the summers. They became known as the "Hoosier Group" of American Impressionists. The town is still living off this association; it is full of little gift shops, kind of like a micro "Carmel by the Sea," but without the sea. The streets were crawling with tourists, but there is a very respectable Brown County Art Gallery with work by local artists. I moved on another 8 miles to visit the home T.C. Steele built on a hilltop, with a fabulous view for miles. They are celebrating all round the county the centennial of his move to the area, so his studio at the home has a special exhibit of his paintings on loan from his descendants.
On the way to Nashville, I passed an "Olde Time Flea Market," essentially a large field full of rusty old farm equipment, just waiting for former Urban Institute colleague Al Gillespie.
That's the motto of Columbus, Indiana, a town of 39,000, about 45 miles south of Indianapolis. It all started back in 1942 when the First Christian Church needed a new building. It selected Eliel Saarinen as architect. This was the first contemporary church in the United States. Later, in the 50's, when more schools were needed for the baby boomers, the local big employer, Cummins Engine Co. [specializing in diesel engines for automobiles], set up a foundation and panel to pay the architect fees for building new schools, then later for other public buildings. The result is astounding. Buildings by I.M. Pei, Richard Meier, Cesar Pelli, Harry Weese, Eero Saarinen, Robert Venturi, and many other names that architecture aficionados would recognize. Tuesday I took the 2-hour tour given by the visitor center, which is amazing in its own right with a gorgeous yellow glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. The tour was mostly by bus, but we went inside several of the churches. Spectacular, timeless, without being flashy. The architects aimed for "coherence" to the feeling of the town. We are in the prairie, so most building are low, not high rise, ala Frank Lloyd Wright. And landscaping must be included in the building plans. Many of the buildings have won awards by the AIA, which has named Columbus the sixth best city in the US for architecture, after Chicago, New York and the like. It is astounding in a city of this size. The town is also proud of many of its older, late 19th century, buildings which have been restored or renovated.
After the tour, I walked around a bit on my own. The library, next door to the visitor center, was designed by I.M. Pei. The mammoth sculpture "Large Arch," by Henry Moore, is out front in the library plaza, which is used for community events, such as a Pop Fest. A sculpture by Jean Tingley is in the Commons, a small in-town mall. The Cummins headquarters has a "museum" for visitors. On display is the "Exploded Engine," showing all the parts of a diesel engine. One can also see the only remaining 1934 Auburn car powered by a Cummins diesel engine and the winning car of the 1987 Indy 500 that was driven by Al Unser, Sr.
I had a delicious Thai Chicken Pasta salad for lunch at Cooks & Co., which has a kitchen specialty store next door, complete with a demonstration kitchen for cooking classes. Several people have asked me about food on the trip. Not much to write home about, but I haven't really been seeking out gourmet places. Too grubby & tired at the end of the day. But if lettuce is any indicator, in Ohio there was only iceberg, in Indiana it has been pretty much romaine and mixed greens.
People seem to love living in Columbus. The tour guide was originally from Scotland. She came here 35 years ago when her husband was transferred for a 2-year-stint with Cummins. I also talked with a woman in the library who moved here from San Diego about a year ago. She loves the seasons. (Her husband is a native Hoosier.)
A beautiful drive 20 miles east, through gentle rolling hills, to Nashville, in Brown County, Indiana, which markets itself as an "Artist Colony." 100 years ago, T.C. Steele, a famous Hoosier artist, moved to this area. He was a magnet for other mid-west artists who came to paint in the summers. They became known as the "Hoosier Group" of American Impressionists. The town is still living off this association; it is full of little gift shops, kind of like a micro "Carmel by the Sea," but without the sea. The streets were crawling with tourists, but there is a very respectable Brown County Art Gallery with work by local artists. I moved on another 8 miles to visit the home T.C. Steele built on a hilltop, with a fabulous view for miles. They are celebrating all round the county the centennial of his move to the area, so his studio at the home has a special exhibit of his paintings on loan from his descendants.
On the way to Nashville, I passed an "Olde Time Flea Market," essentially a large field full of rusty old farm equipment, just waiting for former Urban Institute colleague Al Gillespie.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Eiteljorg Museum
Annette said not to miss the Museum of American Indians and Western Art in Indianapolis, though she hasn't seen it yet. And AAA rates it a "gem." It is the "Eiteljorg Museum." How to pronounce it? Just like it looks. Harrison Eiteljorg was a wealthy Indianapolis businessman who amassed an incredible collection of Western and Native American art. His museum first opened in 1989, nearly a decade before his death; an extension was completed a few years ago. Eiteljorg collected in other areas as well, some of which went to the Indianapolis Museum of Art.
It seemed totally appropriate to visit the museum the day after seeing "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee." Did anyone else notice Fred Thompson's cameo as President Grant? Hope this is as close as he comes to being president. I spent nearly the entire day in this museum. The building itself is fabulous: inspired by the land and architecture of the Southwest. The current temporary exhibit, "Totems to Turquoise: Native American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest," requires several hours to see thoroughly. It was organized by the Museum of Natural History in New York; I don't know where else it will travel to. "Northwest" is the Canadian coast down to the Salish in Washington State. "Southwest" is primarily Arizona & New Mexico. More than jewelry is shown; baskets, weavings, and other craft arts are also exhibited, along with displays of contemporary artists who use traditional motifs and inspirations with contemporary techniques and interpretions. The oldest object I noted was a jet pendant from the Northwest made sometime before 1000 BC.
The existence of such a magnificent museum has spawned donations of other important collections. Businessman George Gund from Cleveland donated his collection of Western art here because he felt there was no appropriate venue in Cleveland. And a collection of "Illustrators of the Golden West" (for magazines and books) has recently come to the museum. On the lower level is a hands-on discovery section for children. In fact, Indianapolis seems to be a great place to bring children: there is a world-class children's zoo and ditto children's museum. In all, there are 8 sites rated as "gems" by AAA, and numerous other interesting places to visit.
Yes, Annette, you should stop here on your next drive to or from St. Louis. And, Michael, you should visit this museum next time you come on business.
The museum is next to the Indiana State Museum, another magnificent building, and next to the city canal, where families were biking, some with children in a bike version of a pedicab. Outside next to the museum is a prairie garden landscaped with native plants. The Tennis Center is nearby; I think the US Clay Court Championship is played there later in the summer.
Too tired to go to another museum after 4+ hours in this one, including a lunch break and a tea break, I drove around downtown, which was fairly quiet due to the holiday. Big wide streets, like Salt Lake City. Special INDY weekend flags everywhere downtown. And lots of signs everywhere downtown to important destinations. Very tourist-friendly.
It seemed totally appropriate to visit the museum the day after seeing "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee." Did anyone else notice Fred Thompson's cameo as President Grant? Hope this is as close as he comes to being president. I spent nearly the entire day in this museum. The building itself is fabulous: inspired by the land and architecture of the Southwest. The current temporary exhibit, "Totems to Turquoise: Native American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest," requires several hours to see thoroughly. It was organized by the Museum of Natural History in New York; I don't know where else it will travel to. "Northwest" is the Canadian coast down to the Salish in Washington State. "Southwest" is primarily Arizona & New Mexico. More than jewelry is shown; baskets, weavings, and other craft arts are also exhibited, along with displays of contemporary artists who use traditional motifs and inspirations with contemporary techniques and interpretions. The oldest object I noted was a jet pendant from the Northwest made sometime before 1000 BC.
The existence of such a magnificent museum has spawned donations of other important collections. Businessman George Gund from Cleveland donated his collection of Western art here because he felt there was no appropriate venue in Cleveland. And a collection of "Illustrators of the Golden West" (for magazines and books) has recently come to the museum. On the lower level is a hands-on discovery section for children. In fact, Indianapolis seems to be a great place to bring children: there is a world-class children's zoo and ditto children's museum. In all, there are 8 sites rated as "gems" by AAA, and numerous other interesting places to visit.
Yes, Annette, you should stop here on your next drive to or from St. Louis. And, Michael, you should visit this museum next time you come on business.
The museum is next to the Indiana State Museum, another magnificent building, and next to the city canal, where families were biking, some with children in a bike version of a pedicab. Outside next to the museum is a prairie garden landscaped with native plants. The Tennis Center is nearby; I think the US Clay Court Championship is played there later in the summer.
Too tired to go to another museum after 4+ hours in this one, including a lunch break and a tea break, I drove around downtown, which was fairly quiet due to the holiday. Big wide streets, like Salt Lake City. Special INDY weekend flags everywhere downtown. And lots of signs everywhere downtown to important destinations. Very tourist-friendly.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Rain in Indiana
Finally left Ohio and reached Indiana. I've traveled over 1000 miles, but not that far westward. In fact, I think I'm only a little more than 1/4 of the way to San Francisco. The landscape has been gradually flattening out ever since I left West Virginia. I entered Indiana near the highest point in the state, 1257'. The state population is pretty low, too, only about 6 million. The weather forecasts have been threatening thunderstorms for days, but the first rain I've seen landed about 5 minutes before I arrived at my motel in Indianapolis, about 3:30 pm. How appropriate to be here on the day of the Indy 500. Many of the drivers in the city seem to think they are competing in the Indy. But the Indy was rain-delayed, as was the French Open. I caught the tail-end of a reshowing of the 2006 French Open final between Federer and Nadal. Two hours later the sun came out, and I went to dinner. It rained again while I was eating, but stopped before I finished.
At a rest stop in Ohio, a sign gave distances to other cities. It was only 70 miles to the Indiana "boarder." But I didn't see him along the way. By the way, the rest stops and state information centers on the interstates across country are terrific. Only in California are they infrequent and tacky. I guess California doesn't think it needs to boost tourism. The greeter at the Indiana Welcome Center is rooting for Danica.
And Indiana now has Daylight Savings Time. They passed it in 2005 after only 40 years of debate.
At a rest stop in Ohio, a sign gave distances to other cities. It was only 70 miles to the Indiana "boarder." But I didn't see him along the way. By the way, the rest stops and state information centers on the interstates across country are terrific. Only in California are they infrequent and tacky. I guess California doesn't think it needs to boost tourism. The greeter at the Indiana Welcome Center is rooting for Danica.
And Indiana now has Daylight Savings Time. They passed it in 2005 after only 40 years of debate.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Fried Mac & Cheese and Tom's Ice Cream
After driving all over to find the Zane Grey Museum closed, I did see two gems today. First, the National Ceramic Museum and Heritage Center in Crooksville, next to Roseville, with a collection of pieces from area potteries, mostly all, if not all, no longer in business. The museum is connected with Hocking College, which specializes in Ceramic Arts classes.
The second gem was the Zanesville Art Center. Zanesville bills itself as the pottery capital of the United States. Thus it may be in some competition with East Liverpool. Sort of like Oceanside, CA and Huntington Beach, CA, both of which claim to be Surf City. But the potteries associated with this area are definitely more in the art pottery category: Weller, Zanesville, Roseville, McCoy, and the like. The Art Center has a terrific collection of Ohio art pottery, a Madame Alexander Doll Collection, and temporary exhibits of local Ohio artists.
I had lunch at "Peaches" in downtown Crooksville. On the menu was "Fried Mac & Cheese Wedges." That's little wedges, deep-fried. I would have loved to have unfried mac & cheese, but it was not available. I refrained from doing a Jack Nicholson imitation and tried the fried variety. Pretty good, to try once. Wonder if Clea would like it. For dessert, ice cream from Tom's Ice Cream Bowl, recommended by the CVS clerk as the best in Zanesville. It was mobbed; Reminded me of the original Gifford's in Bethesda.
On to Indiana tomorrow?
The second gem was the Zanesville Art Center. Zanesville bills itself as the pottery capital of the United States. Thus it may be in some competition with East Liverpool. Sort of like Oceanside, CA and Huntington Beach, CA, both of which claim to be Surf City. But the potteries associated with this area are definitely more in the art pottery category: Weller, Zanesville, Roseville, McCoy, and the like. The Art Center has a terrific collection of Ohio art pottery, a Madame Alexander Doll Collection, and temporary exhibits of local Ohio artists.
I had lunch at "Peaches" in downtown Crooksville. On the menu was "Fried Mac & Cheese Wedges." That's little wedges, deep-fried. I would have loved to have unfried mac & cheese, but it was not available. I refrained from doing a Jack Nicholson imitation and tried the fried variety. Pretty good, to try once. Wonder if Clea would like it. For dessert, ice cream from Tom's Ice Cream Bowl, recommended by the CVS clerk as the best in Zanesville. It was mobbed; Reminded me of the original Gifford's in Bethesda.
On to Indiana tomorrow?
Friday, May 25, 2007
Baker Family Museum
I drove about 100 miles today, almost in a full circle, but I did end up a little further west, in Zanesville. I am taking it even easier than usual because Mother can't meet me in Omaha until June 4, to join me for the last part of the trip.
The gem for today was the Baker Family Museum in Caldwell. The more than 100,000 items in the museum were collected (accumulated?) over 70 years by a brother and sister who never married. The brother died a few years ago, but the sister is still living at age 94. A niece spent 4 years to pack and move the items from the 700-acre farm, catalog them, and set up the museum. There were over 1500 boxes. I am amazed that she did it that quickly, after what I experienced with my father's estate. Highlights:
It is hard to convey the quantity of items of each type without seeing the museum in person. Truly mind-boggling. It is easily worth millions. I rate this museum 2 3/4 rather than 3, only because the items are not identified to the visitor as to maker. Although that might be difficult to accomplish, given that each display case is quite full, and tags might be distracting.
I recovered after lunch and set off to see The Wilds, North America's largest conservation Facility, covering more than 10,000 acres of reclaimed surface-mined land, now home to over 25 species of Asian African, and North American wildlife. Think of the San Diego Wild Animal Park, with more land. I drove 6 miles on an access road to reach the "Welcome Center," only to find that it is open only on weekends in May. Bummer! On the way back out, I nearly hit a deer that ran out right in front of my car. So much for conservation. And to think I skipped seeing the "Big Muskie Bucket" in Miner's Memorial Park. It weighs 460,000 pounds empty, and its volume equals a 12-car garage.
The gem for today was the Baker Family Museum in Caldwell. The more than 100,000 items in the museum were collected (accumulated?) over 70 years by a brother and sister who never married. The brother died a few years ago, but the sister is still living at age 94. A niece spent 4 years to pack and move the items from the 700-acre farm, catalog them, and set up the museum. There were over 1500 boxes. I am amazed that she did it that quickly, after what I experienced with my father's estate. Highlights:
- 1000s of pieces of glassware, much from local companies including Cambridge, Heisey, Fenton, Westmorland, and Degenhart
- pottery, including many pieces of art pottery, from Weller, Shawnee, Roseville, McCoy, and many others from around the world
- toys, large scale model trains
- glass oil lamps
- an entire case of pocket watches
- 3 cases of antique rifles and handguns
- hand painted porcelain, including a gorgeous demitasse set from R.S. Prussia
- an entire room of Americana
It is hard to convey the quantity of items of each type without seeing the museum in person. Truly mind-boggling. It is easily worth millions. I rate this museum 2 3/4 rather than 3, only because the items are not identified to the visitor as to maker. Although that might be difficult to accomplish, given that each display case is quite full, and tags might be distracting.
I recovered after lunch and set off to see The Wilds, North America's largest conservation Facility, covering more than 10,000 acres of reclaimed surface-mined land, now home to over 25 species of Asian African, and North American wildlife. Think of the San Diego Wild Animal Park, with more land. I drove 6 miles on an access road to reach the "Welcome Center," only to find that it is open only on weekends in May. Bummer! On the way back out, I nearly hit a deer that ran out right in front of my car. So much for conservation. And to think I skipped seeing the "Big Muskie Bucket" in Miner's Memorial Park. It weighs 460,000 pounds empty, and its volume equals a 12-car garage.
Thursday, May 24, 2007
William McKinley and Ernest Warther
I drove nearly 200 miles today, but very little of it westerly. Very hot today, about 86 degrees.
I couldn't leave East Liverpool without seeing the "Point of Beginning." Just northeast of Downtown is the first U.S. Boundary marker, marking the survey line for the boundary between Pennsylvania and the Northwest Territory. Thus began the westward expansion of the country. The line turned out to be very close to Hall China, but I didn't know that when I went there yesterday. Just so I could be in a 3rd state today, I crossed the River to West Virginia to visit the Homer Laughlin Retail Outlet Center on Fiesta Drive, directly across from East Liverpool. They sell only Fiesta ware there, none of the other Homer Laughlin patterns. Circled back to East Liverpool by crossing the Newell (toll) Bridge. It must be over 100 years old, I think it was on the Lincoln Road (more about that another day). The tollkeeper tried to give me my change in scrip and was surprised that I wanted money. I guess regulars use these chits. Finally, I checked out the local Carnegie Library, which is still in use as a library in East Liverpool.
Drove North to Canton to visit the William McKinley Presidential Library & Museum. The site also has the huge McKinley Memorial, which was paid for by raising private funds. The so-called Presidential Library is in the county museum, which has a variety of other exhibits as well. There is just one large room with McKinley material. Sound bites:
Drove south to Dover to see the amazing carvings of Ernest Warther, who had only a 2nd grade education. The son of Swiss immigrants, he picked up a knife he found at age 5, and the rest is history. He carved in wood, ivory, ebony, and made exact scale models of trains, steam engines, boats, among other exquisite, intricate carvings, just in his spare time, as a hobby. Many of the models are mechanized; each is truly unbelievable. He also started making his own knives, which branched into a business, tho he never sold any of his carvings. Mrs. Warther was extremely artistic as well. She assembled a collection of thousands of buttons, which she arranged in beautiful designs sewn on to backings, now on display in another small building.
Dover is in the midst of an area that was populated by Swiss & German immigrants. The countryside is filled with immaculate Amish farms. I took the scenic route south (and a bit west) to Cambridge, at the intersection of I-77 and I-70.
I couldn't leave East Liverpool without seeing the "Point of Beginning." Just northeast of Downtown is the first U.S. Boundary marker, marking the survey line for the boundary between Pennsylvania and the Northwest Territory. Thus began the westward expansion of the country. The line turned out to be very close to Hall China, but I didn't know that when I went there yesterday. Just so I could be in a 3rd state today, I crossed the River to West Virginia to visit the Homer Laughlin Retail Outlet Center on Fiesta Drive, directly across from East Liverpool. They sell only Fiesta ware there, none of the other Homer Laughlin patterns. Circled back to East Liverpool by crossing the Newell (toll) Bridge. It must be over 100 years old, I think it was on the Lincoln Road (more about that another day). The tollkeeper tried to give me my change in scrip and was surprised that I wanted money. I guess regulars use these chits. Finally, I checked out the local Carnegie Library, which is still in use as a library in East Liverpool.
Drove North to Canton to visit the William McKinley Presidential Library & Museum. The site also has the huge McKinley Memorial, which was paid for by raising private funds. The so-called Presidential Library is in the county museum, which has a variety of other exhibits as well. There is just one large room with McKinley material. Sound bites:
- His first campaign, in 1896, was the "Front Porch Campaign." He didn't go anywhere, but the train brought notables to Canton to hear him on his front porch
- His first Vice-President, Hobart, died in office, so Teddy Roosevelt was chosen for the 1900 race
- The campaign slogan for the 1900 race was, "Four More Years of the Full Dinner Pail"
- He defeated Wm. Jennings Bryan both times
- His 1st Inauguration was the first to be filmed
- His issues were high tariffs to protect American industry (viz., pottery) and sound money
- In the 1896 campaign, both parties expressed sympathy for Cuban revolutionaries (!) against Spain
- Teddy Roosevelt gained fame as one one of the "Rough Riders" during the ensuing Spanish-American War
- He was assassinated in September 1901 while visiting the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, NY
Drove south to Dover to see the amazing carvings of Ernest Warther, who had only a 2nd grade education. The son of Swiss immigrants, he picked up a knife he found at age 5, and the rest is history. He carved in wood, ivory, ebony, and made exact scale models of trains, steam engines, boats, among other exquisite, intricate carvings, just in his spare time, as a hobby. Many of the models are mechanized; each is truly unbelievable. He also started making his own knives, which branched into a business, tho he never sold any of his carvings. Mrs. Warther was extremely artistic as well. She assembled a collection of thousands of buttons, which she arranged in beautiful designs sewn on to backings, now on display in another small building.
Dover is in the midst of an area that was populated by Swiss & German immigrants. The countryside is filled with immaculate Amish farms. I took the scenic route south (and a bit west) to Cambridge, at the intersection of I-77 and I-70.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Pottery City, U.S.A.
Also known as "Crockery City," at one time East Liverpool, Ohio made half the china in the US.
The highlight of the day was my visit to the Museum of Ceramics, in East Liverpool's former Post Office building (1909). A movie and terrific exhibits chronicle the rise and decline of the city's pottery industry. (3 stars, Annette.)
The first pottery was started here in 1839 by an Englishman, John Bennett. He chose the area both for the clay, which is relatively free of impurities, and the ease of distribution afforded by the adjacent Ohio River. After some modest success, he sent for his brothers from England, and soon other English potters came as well. By 1850, three quarters of the potters were English. The town had been founded in 1799 and was slow to grow until the pottery industry developed, but became essentially a one-industry town. By 1900, 90% of the industrial wage earners were in ceramics manufacturing, at which time there were 239 kilns. Worse, in 1881, only 800 out of 2200 eligible children were in school; the rest worked in potteries. This situation continued until 1908 when Ohio adopted the Child Labor Act. The industry has had many ups and downs. When high protective tariffs were suddenly reduced, the once-protected potteries lowered wages, thus causing labor problems. Tariffs were raised once again when McKinley became president. He was from Eastern Ohio and was a good friend of John Taylor, one of the owners of Knowles, Taylor and Knowles. High tariffs didn't last, so that by 1936, 50% of all china came from Japan. Plastics and foreign competition meant that in 1940 the local industry had declined to only 6 firms. Two years ago, Hall China lost a long-time big customer, Longaberger, to production in China. Over 100 employees were let go and only one of its 4 expensive German automatic pressing machines is running. It is probably surviving by producing Fiesta for Homer Laughlin across the River. This story parallels that of most manufacturing in the US.
The Museum displays samples from many of the potteries that existed at various times since the beginnings. You have seen or maybe own dishes made by local potteries. Knowles, Taylor and Knowles, established in 1853, was the largest in the US by 1895, but survived only until 1929. By 1925, Homer Laughlin was the largest, due to its many technological innovations. Homer Laughlin is famous for Fiesta, but has made many other popular patterns. Harker, which was in existence from 1840 until 1972, and Hall, still in existence, but recently faltering, were also innovators. Hall is famous for its hundreds of varieties of teapots, such as the "doughnut" and "Aladdin" teapots, but is also a major restaurant and hotel supplier. Taylor, Smith and Taylor made Luray china, a set of which my mother purchased ca. 1950. I was thrilled to spend about an hour talking with manager Sarah Webster Vodrey, a 6th-generation descendant from potter Jabez Vodrey, who was one of the early arrivals . It turns out that her sister wrote the Centennial History of Hall China I had purchased this morning.
In the morning, before visiting the museum, I had taken the plant tour of Hall China, seeing 3 different methods of casting/shaping pottery, as well as the entire production process. Thus, I was able to recognize the machines and techniques in the movie at the Museum. I was joined on the Hall tour by a couple named "Hall," who collect Hall's autumn leaf pattern china.
I wanted to have lunch at Crockery City Cafe, which serves on bright colored local (Fiesta?) dishes, but it is closed on Wednesday. I settled instead on the 5th Street Sampler Cafe, which, as it turns out, also uses Fiesta.
Late in the afternoon, I ventured into the MASSIVE Pottery City Mall: 4 floors of antiques, mostly china, with lots of Fiesta. I went through only one floor in two hours. It's a good thing my car is full, as the prices were tempting. If you think about it, the dishes were made here, so there has to be a lot around, especially since the population is declining here. But a rusty, empty Bond Street Tobacco tin was priced at $8. I disposed of many, in nearly mint condition, in my father's estate.
OTHER CURIOSITIES
Cy Young was associated with the potteries here before going on to baseball.
I mentioned yesterday that Steubenville was Dean Martin's hometown. This year's Dean Martin Festival is June 14-17, so you still have time to make your reservations.
And Ohio is sponsoring a "Cast Iron Chef" Competition. Teams have to cook an entree, side dish, and a dessert, using cast iron cookware over a wood fire. Wonder how Mario would do. The final is on June 2 in Columbus.
The highlight of the day was my visit to the Museum of Ceramics, in East Liverpool's former Post Office building (1909). A movie and terrific exhibits chronicle the rise and decline of the city's pottery industry. (3 stars, Annette.)
The first pottery was started here in 1839 by an Englishman, John Bennett. He chose the area both for the clay, which is relatively free of impurities, and the ease of distribution afforded by the adjacent Ohio River. After some modest success, he sent for his brothers from England, and soon other English potters came as well. By 1850, three quarters of the potters were English. The town had been founded in 1799 and was slow to grow until the pottery industry developed, but became essentially a one-industry town. By 1900, 90% of the industrial wage earners were in ceramics manufacturing, at which time there were 239 kilns. Worse, in 1881, only 800 out of 2200 eligible children were in school; the rest worked in potteries. This situation continued until 1908 when Ohio adopted the Child Labor Act. The industry has had many ups and downs. When high protective tariffs were suddenly reduced, the once-protected potteries lowered wages, thus causing labor problems. Tariffs were raised once again when McKinley became president. He was from Eastern Ohio and was a good friend of John Taylor, one of the owners of Knowles, Taylor and Knowles. High tariffs didn't last, so that by 1936, 50% of all china came from Japan. Plastics and foreign competition meant that in 1940 the local industry had declined to only 6 firms. Two years ago, Hall China lost a long-time big customer, Longaberger, to production in China. Over 100 employees were let go and only one of its 4 expensive German automatic pressing machines is running. It is probably surviving by producing Fiesta for Homer Laughlin across the River. This story parallels that of most manufacturing in the US.
The Museum displays samples from many of the potteries that existed at various times since the beginnings. You have seen or maybe own dishes made by local potteries. Knowles, Taylor and Knowles, established in 1853, was the largest in the US by 1895, but survived only until 1929. By 1925, Homer Laughlin was the largest, due to its many technological innovations. Homer Laughlin is famous for Fiesta, but has made many other popular patterns. Harker, which was in existence from 1840 until 1972, and Hall, still in existence, but recently faltering, were also innovators. Hall is famous for its hundreds of varieties of teapots, such as the "doughnut" and "Aladdin" teapots, but is also a major restaurant and hotel supplier. Taylor, Smith and Taylor made Luray china, a set of which my mother purchased ca. 1950. I was thrilled to spend about an hour talking with manager Sarah Webster Vodrey, a 6th-generation descendant from potter Jabez Vodrey, who was one of the early arrivals . It turns out that her sister wrote the Centennial History of Hall China I had purchased this morning.
In the morning, before visiting the museum, I had taken the plant tour of Hall China, seeing 3 different methods of casting/shaping pottery, as well as the entire production process. Thus, I was able to recognize the machines and techniques in the movie at the Museum. I was joined on the Hall tour by a couple named "Hall," who collect Hall's autumn leaf pattern china.
I wanted to have lunch at Crockery City Cafe, which serves on bright colored local (Fiesta?) dishes, but it is closed on Wednesday. I settled instead on the 5th Street Sampler Cafe, which, as it turns out, also uses Fiesta.
Late in the afternoon, I ventured into the MASSIVE Pottery City Mall: 4 floors of antiques, mostly china, with lots of Fiesta. I went through only one floor in two hours. It's a good thing my car is full, as the prices were tempting. If you think about it, the dishes were made here, so there has to be a lot around, especially since the population is declining here. But a rusty, empty Bond Street Tobacco tin was priced at $8. I disposed of many, in nearly mint condition, in my father's estate.
OTHER CURIOSITIES
Cy Young was associated with the potteries here before going on to baseball.
I mentioned yesterday that Steubenville was Dean Martin's hometown. This year's Dean Martin Festival is June 14-17, so you still have time to make your reservations.
And Ohio is sponsoring a "Cast Iron Chef" Competition. Teams have to cook an entree, side dish, and a dessert, using cast iron cookware over a wood fire. Wonder how Mario would do. The final is on June 2 in Columbus.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Early Americans and Toys
Only one day out, & I have had to regroup. It was quite cool for several days in the DC area before I left, so naturally I packed warm shirts in the little bag I take into the motel with me. Now the weather where I am is in the 80's, so I have been switching clothes between the little bag and the big one I keep in the trunk of the car. At least it is not raining while I am standing outside the car, moving things around . The car is already a total mess, with maps & brochures everywhere. I have to try to get it under control each morning.
EARLY AMERICANS
About 15 miles south of Wheeling, in the town of Moundsville, is the Grave Creek Mound, one of the largest of the burial mounds built by the Adena people. It was constructed in stages between about 250 - 150 BC. In 1838 this one was measured at 69 feet high and with a base of 295 feet in diameter. Originally, it was encircled by a moat about 40 feet in width. Quite an impressive mound! These mounds were constructed for the burial of "honored persons." At one time there were numerous mounds in this area, giving the town its name. Most of them have been destroyed or sunken over time. The 1st settler of the town, Joseph Tomlinson, discovered the mound in 1770; Tomlinson would not allow demolition of the mound, which stayed in the family for a few generations, then passed into other hands. The first excavation was in 1838. Later owners built a saloon on top, then a dance platform, and even had a race track around the bottom. During the Civil War Union soldiers had cannon on the top. The mound was nearly destroyed in the early 20th century before the State of West Virginia finally purchased the site. For a time, it was cared for by the (old) West Virginia State Penitentiary, which is right across the street.
The Adena culture ended in the Ohio River Valley about 200 AD; they moved and/or were gradually blended with the later Hopewell culture.
The West Virginia State Penitentiary is now closed, but tours are very popular with school children, who were swarming the mound after their tour of the "pen."
TOYS
It turns out that little Moundsville has another attraction: the "Official" Marx Toy Museum. Marx Toys was founded by Louis Marx in 1919; he sold it in 1972, but without his personal vision, it didn't last much longer. The largest of his 3 factories was in Glen Dale, WV, right next to Moundsville. The museum has thousands of toys on display, with lots of complete playsets including dozens of pieces and figures, such as western towns, train displays, service stations, and sets with a movie or TV theme, such as Ben Hur and Gunsmoke. Remember Big Wheels and Rock-Em Sock-Em Robots? The museum also contains a vintage 1950's cafe with a Coca Cola theme.
LUNCH AND WESTWARD
I finally headed West after lunch at Coleman's FishMarket in the historic Centre Market back in Wheeling, recommended by the Road Food folks. ($5.56 total for lobster bisque, crabcake, and a root beer.) I succumbed to the used book store in the market, but bought only one book for $1.50, Jonathan Raban's Old Glory, An American Voyage, his memoir of travels on the Mississipi River. I thought it appropriate to read on this trip. Westward meant crossing the Ohio River (3 times), but no further west. One of the crossings was on the wonderful old suspension bridge on the National Road. The 1849 bridge, still in use, was the first bridge to cross the Ohio River and at the time was the longest single span bridge ever built, 1010' in length. But cars must be at least 50' apart while crossing.
DETOUR NORTH
North from I70, along the River, is the Ohio town of Steubenville. Fort Steuben was built to protect the surveyors measuring the land ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Paris after the Revolution. This area, known as the Northwest Territory, comprised what is now Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota. The Continental Congress wanted to sell the land to raise money to operate. Some land was also used as bounty land to pay Revolutionary War Soldiers. My ancestor Palfrey Downing received Ohio bounty land, but sold the certificate. Next to the reconstructed fort is the actual First Federal Land Office of the United States, built in 1801. Steubenville's other claim to fame is as the home town of Dean Martin.
Further north is East Liverpool, once a leading producer of pottery. With an area rich in natural clay and coal, the city made about half the nation's pottery until the industry declined in the 1930s. Hall China is still operating here and Homer Laughlin (Fiesta, and other patterns) is right across the river in West Virginia. The local high school sports teams are the "Potters." More tomorrow. Will one day be enough?
Why did the news of rising gas prices come the day I started my trip?
EARLY AMERICANS
About 15 miles south of Wheeling, in the town of Moundsville, is the Grave Creek Mound, one of the largest of the burial mounds built by the Adena people. It was constructed in stages between about 250 - 150 BC. In 1838 this one was measured at 69 feet high and with a base of 295 feet in diameter. Originally, it was encircled by a moat about 40 feet in width. Quite an impressive mound! These mounds were constructed for the burial of "honored persons." At one time there were numerous mounds in this area, giving the town its name. Most of them have been destroyed or sunken over time. The 1st settler of the town, Joseph Tomlinson, discovered the mound in 1770; Tomlinson would not allow demolition of the mound, which stayed in the family for a few generations, then passed into other hands. The first excavation was in 1838. Later owners built a saloon on top, then a dance platform, and even had a race track around the bottom. During the Civil War Union soldiers had cannon on the top. The mound was nearly destroyed in the early 20th century before the State of West Virginia finally purchased the site. For a time, it was cared for by the (old) West Virginia State Penitentiary, which is right across the street.
The Adena culture ended in the Ohio River Valley about 200 AD; they moved and/or were gradually blended with the later Hopewell culture.
The West Virginia State Penitentiary is now closed, but tours are very popular with school children, who were swarming the mound after their tour of the "pen."
TOYS
It turns out that little Moundsville has another attraction: the "Official" Marx Toy Museum. Marx Toys was founded by Louis Marx in 1919; he sold it in 1972, but without his personal vision, it didn't last much longer. The largest of his 3 factories was in Glen Dale, WV, right next to Moundsville. The museum has thousands of toys on display, with lots of complete playsets including dozens of pieces and figures, such as western towns, train displays, service stations, and sets with a movie or TV theme, such as Ben Hur and Gunsmoke. Remember Big Wheels and Rock-Em Sock-Em Robots? The museum also contains a vintage 1950's cafe with a Coca Cola theme.
LUNCH AND WESTWARD
I finally headed West after lunch at Coleman's FishMarket in the historic Centre Market back in Wheeling, recommended by the Road Food folks. ($5.56 total for lobster bisque, crabcake, and a root beer.) I succumbed to the used book store in the market, but bought only one book for $1.50, Jonathan Raban's Old Glory, An American Voyage, his memoir of travels on the Mississipi River. I thought it appropriate to read on this trip. Westward meant crossing the Ohio River (3 times), but no further west. One of the crossings was on the wonderful old suspension bridge on the National Road. The 1849 bridge, still in use, was the first bridge to cross the Ohio River and at the time was the longest single span bridge ever built, 1010' in length. But cars must be at least 50' apart while crossing.
DETOUR NORTH
North from I70, along the River, is the Ohio town of Steubenville. Fort Steuben was built to protect the surveyors measuring the land ceded to the U.S. by the Treaty of Paris after the Revolution. This area, known as the Northwest Territory, comprised what is now Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota. The Continental Congress wanted to sell the land to raise money to operate. Some land was also used as bounty land to pay Revolutionary War Soldiers. My ancestor Palfrey Downing received Ohio bounty land, but sold the certificate. Next to the reconstructed fort is the actual First Federal Land Office of the United States, built in 1801. Steubenville's other claim to fame is as the home town of Dean Martin.
Further north is East Liverpool, once a leading producer of pottery. With an area rich in natural clay and coal, the city made about half the nation's pottery until the industry declined in the 1930s. Hall China is still operating here and Homer Laughlin (Fiesta, and other patterns) is right across the river in West Virginia. The local high school sports teams are the "Potters." More tomorrow. Will one day be enough?
Why did the news of rising gas prices come the day I started my trip?
Monday, May 21, 2007
Westward Ho!
Not very original. Finally started on my latest adventure in late morning, after packing the car. And it is packed! Full! I brought East with me everything I thought I might possibly need for 6 to 8 months. And I have even shipped home half a dozen boxes already. Friend Annette says it looks like a body in the back seat, because I have plastic tablecloths covering the boxes and clothes bags piled up almost to the top of the seatback.
I spent 3 or 4 days planning out my route, so I could estimate when I might arrive in Salt Lake City and meet my mother to tour southwest Utah. Scheduling difficulties have already changed this plan, so she might meet me in Omaha for the trip through Nebraska and on to San Francisco. Trouble is, I want don’t want to miss anything interesting along the way. Annette thinks I may have to spend the winter in Nebraska if I follow this itinerary. I have been enjoying her hospitality for 3 weeks, and you know what they say about guests after only 3 days. A true friend!
I travelled less than 300 miles on my first day, to Wheeling, West Virginia, but managed to go through bits of 4 states: Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, as well as West Virginia, to the edge of Ohio. For now, will be following I-70, with only a few detours. Crossed the Monongahela River and went through the old “Wheeling Tunnel”, one of many old tunnels going through these hills. Wheeling is right on the Ohio River, a truly depressed town, trying hard to make a comeback, showing off its restored Victorian Houses. Also very proud of being on “The Historic National Road.”
The Historic National Road is the latest name for “The National Road,” the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. I’m sure they didn’t think of it exactly like that when it was first authorized in 1806 (not 1906). And then it was called the Cumberland Road, because construction started in Cumberland, MD in 1811, extending an existing road from Baltimore. It was to connect Maryland, Pennsylvania, what is now West Virginia (then still part of Virginia), Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. West of Wheeling, the route continued on the path of Zane’s Trace, the first road in Ohio. (Wheeling was founded by Ebenezer Zane in 1793.) The Road incorporated many earlier Indian trails and Colonial routes. It fostered the growth of inns and stagecoach lines along the route. The Road reached Wheeling in 1818, then to Vandalia, Illinois, the western end of the road, in 1839. Much later it was completed to East St. Louis, linking it to the Mississippi River. In the 1920s and 1930s it was incorporated as part of U.S. Route 40. After Interstate 70 was constructed under the limted-access interstate highway system authorized in 1956, US 40 was bypassed and became a secondary or scenic road. Many of the bypassed towns withered, like the ones on the old Route 66 out west.
I spent 3 or 4 days planning out my route, so I could estimate when I might arrive in Salt Lake City and meet my mother to tour southwest Utah. Scheduling difficulties have already changed this plan, so she might meet me in Omaha for the trip through Nebraska and on to San Francisco. Trouble is, I want don’t want to miss anything interesting along the way. Annette thinks I may have to spend the winter in Nebraska if I follow this itinerary. I have been enjoying her hospitality for 3 weeks, and you know what they say about guests after only 3 days. A true friend!
I travelled less than 300 miles on my first day, to Wheeling, West Virginia, but managed to go through bits of 4 states: Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, as well as West Virginia, to the edge of Ohio. For now, will be following I-70, with only a few detours. Crossed the Monongahela River and went through the old “Wheeling Tunnel”, one of many old tunnels going through these hills. Wheeling is right on the Ohio River, a truly depressed town, trying hard to make a comeback, showing off its restored Victorian Houses. Also very proud of being on “The Historic National Road.”
The Historic National Road is the latest name for “The National Road,” the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. I’m sure they didn’t think of it exactly like that when it was first authorized in 1806 (not 1906). And then it was called the Cumberland Road, because construction started in Cumberland, MD in 1811, extending an existing road from Baltimore. It was to connect Maryland, Pennsylvania, what is now West Virginia (then still part of Virginia), Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. West of Wheeling, the route continued on the path of Zane’s Trace, the first road in Ohio. (Wheeling was founded by Ebenezer Zane in 1793.) The Road incorporated many earlier Indian trails and Colonial routes. It fostered the growth of inns and stagecoach lines along the route. The Road reached Wheeling in 1818, then to Vandalia, Illinois, the western end of the road, in 1839. Much later it was completed to East St. Louis, linking it to the Mississippi River. In the 1920s and 1930s it was incorporated as part of U.S. Route 40. After Interstate 70 was constructed under the limted-access interstate highway system authorized in 1956, US 40 was bypassed and became a secondary or scenic road. Many of the bypassed towns withered, like the ones on the old Route 66 out west.
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